How do you adjust brakes on a 129 Hydrostat

[three4rd]

Hi,

I had noticed of late that I have to really push the pedal all the way down and then still sometimes the tractor doesn't stop right away. I really had trouble going in reverse and stopping on a fairly steep slope the other day.

Having looked in the manual, it said about disconnecting the pin end of the right brake rod and then adjusting the jam nuts on the left wheel, then vice-versa. I couldn't quite see the point of disconnecting at the pin end, and so simply decreased some of the considerable horizontal play that both the brake rods had (not sure if this is normal or not) by tightening up on the jam nuts until the wheel turned harder and thus the brake pedal engaging sooner. Did I do the right thing? I took it out and tested it afterwards and the brakes seem to engage better and without having to press the pedal down quite as far. It did seem like the end nut was a bit loose on both sides and so perhaps they have been vibrating loose and thus reducing the brake efficiency.

Also, should the linkage near the wheel (sorry, don't know the name for it) that actually engages the brake be able to be moved around. Everything back there seems to have so much play - I didn't know if this is normal or not. I'm guessing that, unless the brake is engaged, up until that time the brake rod and linkages that comprise the whole braking system are relatively loose and can move around. I think it was always that way but I'm not sure. And if my jam nuts have not moved from being loose, etc., than perhaps there is something else wrong that I'm not addressing.

Any advice welcome, as I don't want to run out of brakes!

Thanks,
Keith

[R Bedell]

I don't know what manual you are reading, but attached is what the 1x8/9 Operator's Manual states.

Simply put, loosen the jam nuts on both sides. Tighten the adjusting nut to where you like it. Once you are done, tighten the jam nut against the adjusting nut and you are done.

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by three4rd

Hi,

I had noticed of late that I have to really push the pedal all the way down and then still sometimes the tractor doesn't stop right away. I really had trouble going in reverse and stopping on a fairly steep slope the other day.

Having looked in the manual, it said about disconnecting the pin end of the right brake rod and then adjusting the jam nuts on the left wheel, then vice-versa. I couldn't quite see the point of disconnecting at the pin end, and so simply decreased some of the considerable horizontal play that both the brake rods had (not sure if this is normal or not) by tightening up on the jam nuts until the wheel turned harder and thus the brake pedal engaging sooner. Did I do the right thing? I took it out and tested it afterwards and the brakes seem to engage better and without having to press the pedal down quite as far. It did seem like the end nut was a bit loose on both sides and so perhaps they have been vibrating loose and thus reducing the brake efficiency.

Also, should the linkage near the wheel (sorry, don't know the name for it) that actually engages the brake be able to be moved around. Everything back there seems to have so much play - I didn't know if this is normal or not. I'm guessing that, unless the brake is engaged, up until that time the brake rod and linkages that comprise the whole braking system are relatively loose and can move around. I think it was always that way but I'm not sure. And if my jam nuts have not moved from being loose, etc., than perhaps there is something else wrong that I'm not addressing.

Any advice welcome, as I don't want to run out of brakes!

Thanks,
Keith

I think you did it exactly correct. The brake actuator is supposed to be rather loose, as you've noticed. The only caution when adjusting brakes on a hydro is to be sure that the brakes don't engage until the hydro has shifted into neutral via the brake/clutch pedal movement. Hence the instructions for the pedal distances. Sounds like you've fixed it properly.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by three4rd

I really had trouble going in reverse and stopping on a fairly steep slope the other day.

I'm going to say, that I have never needed a brake on a hydro unless I was locking it for transport on a trailer, or parking on a hill. I don't know why you would use it for anything else. If you are sliding on a hill, you probably need some weight, or ag tires. If you sliding due to traction loss, a brake isn't going to matter. Sounds like you fixed it correctly.

[three4rd]

Hi,

I appreciate the help. I had read in the manual that the brake should not engage until the pedal is quite close to the stop, and so I did not want to tighten up on the jam nuts too much - just enough that the wheel became hard to turn compared to what it was. I drove it after making the adjustments and found it to be better but probably could have taken it up some more yet. But I was concerned, as was pointed out to me, about the brakes not engaging until the hydro goes back to neutral. I didn't know if maybe the pads need to be replaced since I have never had to make any sort of brake adjustment in the 33 years I've had the tractor! Guess I'll see how things go next time I mow

Keith

[Yosemite Sam]

I gotta agree... It's a Hydro, wadda ya need brakes for?

Unless the tractor has a working N/S switch, I don't know if I ever put my foot on the pedal.

[three4rd]

Hi Yosemite,

LOL...you mean you actually never use the pedal? I can't quite imagine driving it that way.

It's just different than it used to be in the way it brakes, especially when going down an incline in reverse. The only way to get it stopped is to grab the shift and get to forward asap. With the pedal alone, I'd slide right down the hill. So something is still not right. I don't want to overdo it on the jam nuts since the brakes should not engage before a minimum of 3/4 inch from the stop, which is about where I have it now. The best way I can describe it is like when they refer to a car brake pedal as being "spongy". The brake doesn't engage firmly - the pedal still flexes quite a bit. I don't recall it being that way before.

Keith

[drglinski]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I'm going to say, that I have never needed a brake on a hydro unless I was locking it for transport on a trailer, or parking on a hill.

X2 agreed.

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by three4rd

Hi Yosemite,

LOL...you mean you actually never use the pedal? I can't quite imagine driving it that way.

It's just different than it used to be in the way it brakes, especially when going down an incline in reverse. The only way to get it stopped is to grab the shift and get to forward asap. With the pedal alone, I'd slide right down the hill. So something is still not right. I don't want to overdo it on the jam nuts since the brakes should not engage before a minimum of 3/4 inch from the stop, which is about where I have it now. The best way I can describe it is like when they refer to a car brake pedal as being "spongy". The brake doesn't engage firmly - the pedal still flexes quite a bit. I don't recall it being that way before.

Keith

I use the brake pedal some on my hydro tractors, but I'm still pretty new to them (only started using them a year ago--always had a gear tractor), so some of it may be reflex, I'm so used to using the clutch. But I still find it easy to step on the brake to stop the tractor when I need to get off to open a gate or pick up a branch.

I'd continue to take up slack in the brake linkage until the brakes hold the tractor the way you want. As long as it goes into neutral when you press on the brake pedal, it'll be fine.

[three4rd]

Sawdustdad,

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking of continuing to tighten up on the linkage a bit, but don't want to screw up the hydro. As you said, as long as I'm hitting neutral first, I should be fine.

Is there any chance that the brake lining needs to be replaced? Is there lining to replace on a 129?

Keith