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  #1  
Old 06-29-2014, 06:00 PM
hondadreamca77 hondadreamca77 is offline
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Default Manual PTO Repair

Recently I asked for advice to remove stuck/stripped set screws on a manual PTO. I quickly found out what a little beast of a job this is to do as in my case the set screws were all rounded out and no allen wrench would work. The clutch hub was broken on the back side (pics below) and the fiber disc was broken as well. Nothing to do but overhaul to like new service level. Here is my progress and suggestions for those who will need to do this in the future. Total time 4 hours.


1) You will waste your time without good drill bits to drill the old PTO set screws out. I found these Cobalt Irwin's to be excellent and only $1.75 ea at Auto Value Supply. They ate the metal like butta.

Drill Bits.jpg


2) Next pic is carefully drilling out the old screw. Plenty of oil and slow and precise drilling. 3/16 and then 11/64". SLOW/STEADY.

Drill out.jpg

3) Offending clutch hub is shown showing broken metal on backside of hub where PO over tightened or time destroyed it. Definitely loose but fortunately I have a spare clutch hub to use for this job.

Old Clutch.jpg

4) Next is broken disc compared to new thicker disc ($31)

Discs.jpg

5) Then re tapped holes 1/4" 20 to clean threads.

Tap clutch.jpg

6) Cleaned and repacked the rider bearing with Lucas HD green grease.

7) Reassembly with new set screws (permatexed) and place back in basket.

Basket.jpg

8) Per manual adjusted PTO lever gap to distance of matchbook cover.

When I hooked up the mower and ran her she worked flawless. I had totally service the 48" deck beforehand and this was probably the first light of day this baby had seen in over 20 years. No thrown belts...just a smooth cut and working clutch.
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File Type: jpg New Disc.jpg (25.9 KB, 121 views)
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  #2  
Old 06-29-2014, 06:12 PM
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Jeff in Pa Jeff in Pa is offline
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Good to hear it went somewhat smoothly.

Purchase a real tap wrench ( even a $3 harbor freight one). You put more side pressure on the tap than you realize using pliers or vise grips to turn the tap. I know you were just cleaning threads but it doesn't take much to break a tap.
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  #3  
Old 06-29-2014, 08:57 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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what he said.
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Old 06-29-2014, 09:55 PM
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ACecil ACecil is offline
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Glad you got it working!
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  #5  
Old 06-30-2014, 02:58 PM
hondadreamca77 hondadreamca77 is offline
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Default Thanks

Have a T handle for taps.....past 35 years, lot's of usage....airplane, boats, motorcycle restores....etc.

Also have same vice grip for 35 years......

For just cleaning out a thread? Really.

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Old 06-30-2014, 04:29 PM
Maxwelhse Maxwelhse is offline
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Good pics and write up. I personally wouldn't have worried about the tap handle for clean up if the tap started smoothly and probably would have used a socket and ratchet.. I guess we're both wrong...

FWIW, real cutting oil (not WD-40) makes a HUGE difference too. I use Tap Magic.
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Old 06-30-2014, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondadreamca77 View Post
Have a T handle for taps.....past 35 years, lot's of usage....airplane, boats, motorcycle restores....etc.

Also have same vice grip for 35 years......

For just cleaning out a thread? Really.

As a machinist for well over 3 decades, I always try to use the correct tools. When offering suggestions, I always try to offer the safest ( less chance of tool breakage) way to work.

It sounds like you have some experience behind you, I couldn't tell that in that post.
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Old 06-30-2014, 09:34 PM
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drglinski drglinski is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa View Post
As a machinist for well over 3 decades, I always try to use the correct tools. When offering suggestions, I always try to offer the safest ( less chance of tool breakage) way to work.

It sounds like you have some experience behind you, I couldn't tell that in that post.
I agree. I don't like guys that get crappy tools and/or the wrong ones for the job.
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