127 axle seal change problems

[Magnum]

My left axle seal was leaking on my 127, lost all the fluid in a day or two sitting in my garage. With 2 feet I snow on the ground I decide no time better to fix the tractor since all that snow I just shoveled could have been pushed out. I picked up two seals to just change both side while I was in there. So I've got the cub on stands, left tire and brakes off, tiller gearbox removed, and drained the rear except a little puddle. I pop of the Axle clip and wouldn't you know it vanished.... I searched for two hours last night, every crevices running magnets and a little mirror all around. I decide you know what I'll just pop the other side and see what happens, well it shot around inside the rear and I eventually found it in the small amount of fluid in the bottom. I gave up for the night so time to regroup.
1. Maybe somehow the clip flew past me and it's not in there?
2. I saw a video that shows a top access panel under the seat, any recommendations on the easiest way to pull the fenders? I was look at that last night and I've got some rusted flat heads on the foot boards- do those need to come off? I have been searching for a video or something on fender removal and have not had much luck.
3. Do I say oh well I have searched enough it's probably not in there, put a magnet in the housing just in case, get a new clip and let her rip?

My rear main gear will not move, haven't been able to push the tractor but sporadically a few times last season.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

[mickb72]

Hi, look inside that carrier and spider gears real good. Mike

[Sugarmaker]

I hate that when you loose something like that snap ring. It has to be there somewhere either inside or out. I bet if you look one more time you will find it. At least its not out in the grass. Retrace your steps when the clip flew off. Hope that helps
I have never replaced these seals so have not been in this portion of the rear end. I will keep your information in mind if I have to do seal changes.
Regards,
Chris

[Magnum]

The spiders move freely, I can't turn the main gear. My first thought was it got hung up on the back somewhere. I took a piece of tie wire and fished it all over last night... I even had my wife come out because her hand fit all the way to te back to feel around ha ha. Maybe I should set up my shop vac or try to blow it out to see if it turns up.
Has anyone pulled their fenders to access the plate on the top of the rear? I'm thinking if I can pull that I can get a different view point. Maybe I'm over thinking the fenders but it looks like it's a puzzle to pull it off.

[Magnum]

Originally Posted by Sugarmaker

I hate that when you loose something like that snap ring. It has to be there somewhere either inside or out. I bet if you look one more time you will find it. At least its not out in the grass. Retrace your steps when the clip flew off. Hope that helps
I have never replaced these seals so have not been in this portion of the rear end. I will keep your information in mind if I have to do seal changes.
Regards,
Chris

If I had not lost the clip it would have been done in about an hour. Keep in mind with your tiller gearbox there are different length bolts into the cover plate... Which I had mine sorted but kicked my stool and mixed them up- luckily I took pictures of placement and I have pulled it off a few times before to put the plow on

[TheSaturnV]

That is a bummer when some little thing like this turns a few hour project into a couple of days.

To remove your fender pan, yes the foot plates have to come off. On your first attempt, do everything you can to save the slot head and get them out normally. This will require the biggest flat head screwdriver you've likely got, a large crescent (adjustable) wrench and some PB blaster or similar.

Spray around the screw heads to try to get some PB to slip below to the threads. Take your flat head and put the crescent down on the blade, just above the screw head. This will give you a two-handed tool and a considerable amount of torque. If you have a little helper, have them tap on the top of the screwdriver while you begin your turn.

If the screw(s) budge some, then stop, you can get PB down into the threads at this point. If you have an impact tool that has a flat head tip, that will be your best bet. A last resort will be to get something like a cane bolt of similar diameter that you can tack weld to the head of the stubborn screw. This one does the trick almost every time.

Here's a video by 500passwords, showing how it's done:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLsl5...2830BA53F5DBCE

Suggest replacing the upper cover gasket, rear cover gasket, both out axle seals (as you are doing) and the carrier gaskets. If you were pushing in on those clips with a couple of screwdrivers or the like, I'd bet money that clip is sitting up in the front in a pool of fluid. I had one I couldn't see for the life of me, until I pulled that top cover.

[Sam Mac]

This may sound stupid but any way you can stand the tractor on end? Maybe it will fall out. Just a thought.

[Magnum]

I wish I could but the garage is way too tight to stand it on end. The more I think about it I'll be better off in the long run pulling the fenders to get to the top plate- at least I will be able to clean everything while I'm there.

[Alvy]

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

That is a bummer when some little thing like this turns a few hour project into a couple of days.

To remove your fender pan, yes the foot plates have to come off. On your first attempt, do everything you can to save the slot head and get them out normally. This will require the biggest flat head screwdriver you've likely got, a large crescent (adjustable) wrench and some PB blaster or similar.

Spray around the screw heads to try to get some PB to slip below to the threads. Take your flat head and put the crescent down on the blade, just above the screw head. This will give you a two-handed tool and a considerable amount of torque. If you have a little helper, have them tap on the top of the screwdriver while you begin your turn.

Great advice Saturn, I use this technique too, and the 500 passwords method works great with a welder. I've actually started to use a torch with a brazing tip and heat the nutsert deals under the fenders until red and as soon as you can get a turn or so up on the truss head bolts a flat jaw vice grip works good to get them the rest of the way. Some of these special bolts and threads IH used are fun to try to find like those truss heads, and the 12 x 24 screws that hold the lower engine skids on and the tunnel covers. It the 10 x 32's I had to find for the q/l duct work. Moral of the story is try to save them as much as you can

[Magnum]

Thanks guys - I plan on gettin back into it on Monday. I have an impact driver with a giant flathead that will hopefully help matters out. I will keep everyone updated as I go.