Trouble starting 129

[jimbob200521]

I'm working with a 129 that's been repowered with a strong 14hp Kohler at some point in its life. It's always been a slow cranker but lately, I cannot, no matter what I do, get it to start. It has been being used for myQA42A since my 682 died and been doing a phenomenal job if it! But now...it won't start. I've got good spark, I've checked that much. It'll try to start, it'll kick over once or twice then it'll just keep cranking. Its getting frustrating because now that I have a new gearbox, I need it running. Any ideas, things I can check?

I've already removed and cleaned up all the grounds, I'm wondering about the carb? When it cranks white smoke comes out the carb. But maybe I'm wondering if there's water somewhere in the carb/lines? I just need a direction to go, thanks guys!

[Cub Cadet 123]

It sounds like you have water in your fuel system somewhere. You might try dry gas or some carb and choke spray in the throat of your carb to get things started cranking over for you. I pre-mix my fuel with Marvel Mystery Oil and Startron before filling my fuel container, then add that to my cub. One of my 123's is slow to start in the winter, so I just spray some carb & choke spray (not much) in the carb and it fires right up. Hope that helps in some small way.

Cub Cadet 123

[J-Mech]

Just tore down a K301 motor today with the same problem. Intake valve not seating in it. Exhaust was burnt too. Don't think that had anything to do with it being a slow cranker. But it was why it was puffing back through the carb. It too ran fine, but wouldn't start.

[Yosemite Sam]

A lot of the time, in cold weather, the hydro tractors engine can not spin fast enough to start because the hydraulic oil is so cold and thick. Try jump starting it from your car or truck.

If that doesn't do it and it were mine, I would spritz a little starting fluid down the throat of the carb. and then try to start it. If it starts, even for a second, then you know that it's not getting fuel/enough fuel.

If it doesn't start, pull the plug and see if it's wet. If the plug is wet, it's getting too much fuel or it isn't getting fire at the right time.

An engine must have air, fuel, compression and fire to start. There must be the right amount of each and these things must occur in the right order and happen at the right time. In a nutshell, that's ICE 101.

Use a process of elimination to identify the symptom/s that is has, eliminate the symptom/s and it should start.

[Billy-O]

Look at the little and less invasive things to trouble shoot the hard starting problems before digging too deep like valves. For example, check your points (timing). Put in a clean plug gapped correctly

Another thing: As another poster pointed out, the hydro in cold weather can be pretty stiff on the starter. I find that starting with full choke and 1/3 throttle make it easier for cold starting. If I get a pop or two but no go, I back off the choke a little bit. That gets her going usually. Everyone's motor is a little different.

[J-Mech]

If I'm not mistaken, this is the tractor that I walked you through installing new points on right? So a tune up has been done? If that is the case, there are very few things that can cause a spit back out the carb. Timing, which can be ruled out because it has been done. Running lean could do it.... but in my experience, not when it is this cold. Either your coil is weak, or you have a bad valve. Check spark, but I'm leaning towards the bad valve.

[Flatbedford]

I have been keeping the batteries for my 149s warm in my basement. This cold weather makes the batteries so weak that they can't crank fast enough to start. Maybe your battery is needs some help?

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by Cub Cadet 123

It sounds like you have water in your fuel system somewhere. You might try dry gas or some carb and choke spray in the throat of your carb to get things started cranking over for you. I pre-mix my fuel with Marvel Mystery Oil and Startron before filling my fuel container, then add that to my cub. One of my 123's is slow to start in the winter, so I just spray some carb & choke spray (not much) in the carb and it fires right up. Hope that helps in some small way.

Cub Cadet 123

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

A lot of the time, in cold weather, the hydro tractors engine can not spin fast enough to start because the hydraulic oil is so cold and thick. Try jump starting it from your car or truck.

If that doesn't do it and it were mine, I would spritz a little starting fluid down the throat of the carb. and then try to start it. If it starts, even for a second, then you know that it's not getting fuel/enough fuel.

If it doesn't start, pull the plug and see if it's wet. If the plug is wet, it's getting too much fuel or it isn't getting fire at the right time.

An engine must have air, fuel, compression and fire to start. There must be the right amount of each and these things must occur in the right order and happen at the right time. In a nutshell, that's ICE 101.

Use a process of elimination to identify the symptom/s that is has, eliminate the symptom/s and it should start.

Kinda what I'm looking at trying first, drain the tank and carb bowl and start with fresh fuel. As for MMO, I always mix a couple ounces per gallon with my gas, but have never used Startron. I did try spraying some carb cleaner in to get it to crank and when I do that, it fires but there's never enough to get it to full on run.

Originally Posted by J-Mech

If I'm not mistaken, this is the tractor that I walked you through installing new points on right? So a tune up has been done? If that is the case, there are very few things that can cause a spit back out the carb. Timing, which can be ruled out because it has been done. Running lean could do it.... but in my experience, not when it is this cold. Either your coil is weak, or you have a bad valve. Check spark, but I'm leaning towards the bad valve.

Must be a blue moon soon because you are mistaken You helped set the timing on my 1450, not this 129. This tractor came to me in excellent running order and all I've ever done to it, outside of oil change, tranny change, etc, is clean the carb when I first got it, even though it didn't look to have needed it. And I do have spark, I took the plug out and grounded it to the engine and cranked; I've got spark. I was wondering about the coil on it as well, is there a way to test that?

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by jimbob200521

Must be a blue moon soon because you are mistaken You helped set the timing on my 1450, not this 129. This tractor came to me in excellent running order and all I've ever done to it, outside of oil change, tranny change, etc, is clean the carb when I first got it, even though it didn't look to have needed it. And I do have spark, I took the plug out and grounded it to the engine and cranked; I've got spark. I was wondering about the coil on it as well, is there a way to test that?

AHHHHHH.......
I was thinking it was the 129.
Should be a nice pretty blue spark. If it is, I wouldn't get too carried away with the testing. Yes, you can ohm the coil. IIRC, Roland put up the specs in the tech section. Pull the point cover and see if the points are sparking a lot. If so, put a new condenser on it.

[J-Mech]

........ I lost count of your tractors. What do you have now?.... 1050, 1811, 129, 1450? That right?

I guess it's on your sig, isn't it.......