CC105 PTO not disengaging

[cmouta]

the pto on my 105 has been slowly not disengaging until I was finally out of turnbuckle adjustment and it destroyed my wear button today when I got the tractor finally running.

The symptoms were: able to spin pto pulley freely when pto lever was "engaged" and wear button was not pressing on thrust button.

with lever pulled back into "disengaged" the pulley would spin with the motor.

I pulled the clutch off today and found the clutch disks to move freely. I figure this can't be right since with no pressure on the thrust button ala engaged, it should be pretty tight. When I push the thrust button from the inside it does indeed lock up like it's supposed to.



I wasn't thrilled to see this:



I'm guessing I pressed on those triangle fingers so much that they were rubbing on the shaft that the bearing sits on which was turning the PTO pulley, not the friction disks.

I don't have an adjusting tool so I guess my question is, can I just trial and error the adjustment on this thing to get it close enough where it engages/disengages? The nuts are currently at the end of the bolts. How tight does the friction disk need to be when the thrust button isn't being depressed? thanks! Snow's comin!

[J-Mech]

Time for a rebuild. It's toast.

[Yosemite Sam]

The best I know, the Narrow Frame style PTO is really only supposed to have one friction disk in it.

It looks like the end of the crank was rubbing on the back of the spring, if that is the case the bearing is too far back on the crank (the bearing should be flush with the end of the crank).

In any event, whatever was rubbing the spring has caused it to get hot and now it doesn't "spring" as it should.

You may be able to get by with just putting a new spring in it (if you can find one).

Not "looking into" the problem when it first started is an expensive lesson that I think a lot of us have learned the hard way.

Probably best to check the bearing before you put it back together.

Good luck with your pto.

[cadzag72]

if it would spin free when the lever was engaged, that means the linkage was way overtightened already. when i set my pto's up, i have the linkage backed way out and in the engaged position.at this point it is tight and won't spin by hand. I then pull it back to disengaged and tighten the linkage a turn at a time until i can spin it by hand. i'm surprised your spring didn't snap after all that tension and friction!

[cmouta]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

It looks like the end of the crank was rubbing on the back of the spring, if that is the case the bearing is too far back on the crank (the bearing should be flush with the end of the crank).

The bearing seemed pretty flush on the crank although it did have a little play in it. Definitely due for a replacing.

Originally Posted by cadzag72

if it would spin free when the lever was engaged, that means the linkage was way overtightened already. when i set my pto's up, i have the linkage backed way out and in the engaged position.at this point it is tight and won't spin by hand. I then pull it back to disengaged and tighten the linkage a turn at a time until i can spin it by hand. i'm surprised your spring didn't snap after all that tension and friction!

That would make sense to me, and I think how the PO did it, that way you are only putting the tension you need to disengage it but the manual says to have it just barely off the button so that's what I did which worked for a while until now, obviously. I'm guessing it's more of a safety issue. If you need to disengage the PTO, you want it to happen ASAP, not halfway up the handle travel. I'm thinking the few attempts at snowthrowing really exposed the weak links in my 105.

Again, thanks for input and for these forums in general. I wouldn't have been able to remove those pressure springs holding my grill in place to even look at this if someone didn't already describe how they work in another thread somewhere.

[cmouta]

Decided to take the easy way out.

[Sam Mac]

I trust that you got a new button to go with it. If not Jeff in PA has them in brass.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875

[cmouta]

Yes sir, mine was completely destroyed. Picked up the rebuilt clutch, bearing and new button locally but I'll keep that source in mind for the future, thanks.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by cmouta

Yes sir, mine was completely destroyed. Picked up the rebuilt clutch, bearing and new button locally but I'll keep that source in mind for the future, thanks.

The brass button last a long time. The very first one I made was for myself and it's still on the 125 for 5 years so far

( I broke two fiber buttons in less than 20 minutes Brass doesn't break when changing belts or wear much )

[darkminion_17]

I know Dave did you well on the new pto.