Axle tube bolt torque

[TIMCRUTCHER]

How tight do I tighten the axle tube bolts and the rear cover bolts on my 1782?

Thanks

Tim

[Sam Mac]

Axle tube bolts 30FT.LBS. Not sure on the cover. 1 fart should do it. LMAO

[CTRUEX]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Axle tube bolts 30FT.LBS. Not sure on the cover. 1 fart should do it. LMAO

I tried that method once and crapped my pants!
I like using RTV on the threads, it acts as a lubricant to ensure proper torque values, and ensures there will be no leaks. Not all of those axle tube bolt holes are blind, I still remember my first experience with them. It was cool.

[Tom Scott]

Originally Posted by CTRUEX

I tried that method once and crapped my pants!
I like using RTV on the threads, it acts as a lubricant to ensure proper torque values, and ensures there will be no leaks. Not all of those axle tube bolt holes are blind, I still remember my first experience with them. It was cool.

I am generally over at the Cub Cadet Collectors site, but I thought I could help on this, so here it is...

Permatex #2 or #3 is a better choice for sealing threads. RTV has a bad habit of pushing a glob where it isn't needed and the seal on the threads will be broken if you retorque in the future.

Permatex #2 is thick and in a tube, #3 is a brush in cap deal, just a thinner version of the same stuff. None of the threaded holes for the axle carriers are blind, so they should all have thread sealant. As mentioned, this will help ensure consistent tension on all the bolts. #2 and 3 never completely dry and stay tacky, allowing them to be retorqued at a later date without losing the seal.

If it is all apart and you can clean the chips out, it is good build practice with any block or casting to run a tap through all the threaded holes to clean them out and to make sure they are tapped deep enough. This also helps ensure consistent torquing.

All 3/8 bolts threaded into these aluminum castings should be torqued to 30 ft-lbs, including the rear cover bolts.

All the bolts should have the torque checked occasionally as part of good maintenance, but the rear cover in particular will need retorquing several days later to account for gasket crush. Every one I have done needs a surprising amount of turn to get back to 30 ft-lbs. I generally prepare this gasket and the axle carrier gaskets with Permatex #2 as well.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by Tom Scott

I am generally over at the Cub Cadet Collectors site, but I thought I could help on this, so here it is...

Permatex #2 or #3 is a better choice for sealing threads. RTV has a bad habit of pushing a glob where it isn't needed and the seal on the threads will be broken if you retorque in the future.

Permatex #2 is thick and in a tube, #3 is a brush in cap deal, just a thinner version of the same stuff. None of the threaded holes for the axle carriers are blind, so they should all have thread sealant. As mentioned, this will help ensure consistent tension on all the bolts. #2 and 3 never completely dry and stay tacky, allowing them to be retorqued at a later date without losing the seal.

If it is all apart and you can clean the chips out, it is good build practice with any block or casting to run a tap through all the threaded holes to clean them out and to make sure they are tapped deep enough. This also helps ensure consistent torquing.

All 3/8 bolts threaded into these aluminum castings should be torqued to 30 ft-lbs, including the rear cover bolts.

All the bolts should have the torque checked occasionally as part of good maintenance, but the rear cover in particular will need retorquing several days later to account for gasket crush. Every one I have done needs a surprising amount of turn to get back to 30 ft-lbs. I generally prepare this gasket and the axle carrier gaskets with Permatex #2 as well.

Tom

Welcome to OCC.

All good stuff. Now that your here at the #1 Cub site how about posting your rebuild of your 2182 rear end. I'm sure the members would learn something.

Sam

[Cubcrazy]

Originally Posted by Tom Scott

I am generally over at the Cub Cadet Collectors site, but I thought I could help on this, so here it is...

Permatex #2 or #3 is a better choice for sealing threads. RTV has a bad habit of pushing a glob where it isn't needed and the seal on the threads will be broken if you retorque in the future.

Permatex #2 is thick and in a tube, #3 is a brush in cap deal, just a thinner version of the same stuff. None of the threaded holes for the axle carriers are blind, so they should all have thread sealant. As mentioned, this will help ensure consistent tension on all the bolts. #2 and 3 never completely dry and stay tacky, allowing them to be retorqued at a later date without losing the seal.

If it is all apart and you can clean the chips out, it is good build practice with any block or casting to run a tap through all the threaded holes to clean them out and to make sure they are tapped deep enough. This also helps ensure consistent torquing.

All 3/8 bolts threaded into these aluminum castings should be torqued to 30 ft-lbs, including the rear cover bolts.

All the bolts should have the torque checked occasionally as part of good maintenance, but the rear cover in particular will need retorquing several days later to account for gasket crush. Every one I have done needs a surprising amount of turn to get back to 30 ft-lbs. I generally prepare this gasket and the axle carrier gaskets with Permatex #2 as well.

Welcome to OCC Tom!

[dag1450]

Hey Tom ! Welcome !

[DoubleO7]

How does Permatex #2 and #3 on the threads effect tension values?

Same torque will result in different tension values between dry threads, oiled threads, anti-seized threads.

No idea what #2 and #3 results are.

[Tom Scott]

Not that I have lab tests to prove it, but I consider bolts with threadlocker or sealant to be the same a lubricated. Although the #2 or #3 may seem "sticky" when turning the bolt in by hand, they should still act as a lubricant while under extreme pressure as opposed to dry metal against metal, and more so while freshly applied.

As you mentioned, different bolt tension will be obtained from the same tightening torque depending upon the fastener conditions. Many people don't understand that tightening torque is an indirect measurement.

What you would really want to measure is bolt tension, but that is extremely difficult to do. The next best would be the bolt stretch when tightened, from which bolt tension can be calculated with good accuracy.

The least reliable is what we commonly use, torque measurement to tighten. The problem with using tightening torque is that about 70% of that measured torque is used to overcome friction, which is why good torque charts show about a 20% reduction in torque spec for plated, lubricated, or use of machined hardened washers. All of these reduce the friction, so you must reduce the applied torque to avoid over tightening the bolt.

In the end, using a torque wrench then ends up being just a "ballpark" measurement. This is where real world experience and results help.

[ACecil]

Welcome to OCC, Tom! Glad to have you!