Axle pivot pin material?

sawdustdad · #1 01-05-2014, 09:49 PM

anybody know the material that the axle pin is made from? The 3/4 inch diameter pin that the axle pivots on. Would mild steel work or should it be hardened? I'm thinking softer is better to avoid wear to the axle bore itself. Thoughts? Anybody make your own?

J-Mech · #2 01-05-2014, 11:01 PM

I would think cold-rolled would be hard enough. That's what I would use.

Now you get to use your lathe!

sawdustdad · #3 01-06-2014, 07:26 PM

You're reading my mind, Jonathan. Should be an easy thing to make. Lets see, 3pt lift pin, drive shaft coupling, umm...

I need to find the pair of clutch plates that I set aside last year because they were too pitted to reuse. I'll try to reface them and see how it goes.

Calvins66Cub · #4 01-06-2014, 07:56 PM

I know the feeling when you get a new toy. What can I make first?

Slow small cuts at first till you get comfortable with your lathe capabilities.

Jeff in Pa · #5 01-06-2014, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Calvins66Cub

I know the feeling when you get a new toy. What can I make first?

Slow small cuts at first till you get comfortable with your lathe capabilities.

Safety glasses and no loose clothes/hair or jewelry. Certain times you may need hearing protection too.

Calvins66Cub · #6 01-06-2014, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

Safety glasses and no loose clothes/hair or jewelry. Certain times you may need hearing protection too.

Jeff, You are exactly right!!! I assume that if you own a Cub you have common sense! LOL!!!

CTRUEX · #7 01-06-2014, 08:32 PM

I used a grade 8 fine thread bolt on my QL, along with a nylock jam nut. You will need to turn, or slowly grind the height of the head down, but this will allow you to take out a lot of the axle slop. IH, and then CC, did the spread frames pretty much the same way. Wear to the axle bore shouldn't be too much of a concern, but if so, bore it out and insert a bushing. Is yours loose? I had to beat my old pin out, all of the wear was done to the mounting brace on the frame. That can be remedied with a welder and hardened steel bushing material.

heapes · #8 01-06-2014, 11:19 PM

I turned O1 tool steel because that's what I had around the shop. I made a head on it to keep it from pulling through the hole. After installing the axle and inserting the new pin I used a C-clamp and pulled the frame's C-channel up to remove any play. I did leave it loose enough that the axle pivoted free. With the C-clamp still in place I center punched the hole for the roll pin then disassembled everything to drill the hole for the roll pin. I figure if I keep it greased the tool steel shouldn't cause wear on the axle.

sawdustdad · #9 01-07-2014, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

Safety glasses and no loose clothes/hair or jewelry. Certain times you may need hearing protection too.

No concerns there, guys. I'm a lifelong woodworker, and have a fairly well equipped shop. Full face shields, safety jigs, dust collection system, etc. Still have all my fingers! Just have not been into metalworking as much until I got into working on the tractors. I have a nice wood lathe, so safety around spinning parts is second nature.

782CC · #10 01-08-2014, 11:07 AM

Couldn't agree more on taking it slow on the cuts. Wood working you have no doubt tossed a part and know how that feels. Working in a bearing shop that was always a challenge as you couldn't clamp to hard.
However, If to small of a cut the heat will harden the metal/dull your cutter. The cutter needs enough new material to dissipate the heat. Speed of the part is a factor in this. You can tell if you are hardening as it will require more pressure to start a cut and shows on the cutting tool of course. Doing the math on your feed rate will help with confidence and the feel for it.