Brakes on a 1811

[Gregory]

I know that the brakes don't seem that important on a hydro, but to improve safety for the driver (my son) I'm trying to get the brakes to work and release correctly, and to stop the tractor. The brake pedal works correctly and does return after being depressed. This indicates that a return spring is working for the pedal.
I replaced the pads, cleaned all the threads on the nut and bolts. The rotor spin within the caliper, but once the brake pedal is depressed, all tension is not released from the pads and the rotor will not spin.
Attached are pics of the original pads in which the inside pad is almost to the rivets. I replaced the pads because of this but, if left the way it is, premature wear of the inside pad will result causing heat which will just wear this pad down also.
Should a return spring be configured off the frame rail to pull the brake-knuckle back off the pads ?

Greg

[Sam Mac]

I see no reason why you couldn't put a small return spring on each side to pull them back

[Oak]

Did you re adjust the brake rods after installing the new or re-lined pads? The two springs on each caliper should be enough to release them.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Oak

Did you re adjust the brake rods after installing the new or re-lined pads? The two springs on each caliper should be enough to release them.

I agree with Todd.

Make sure the actuating lever moves really free, they will bind and not make it return, again, adjust the pull rod tension. It may just be too tight.

[darkminion_17]

Any oil on those brake parts will attract dirt and keep them from working properly.

[clint]

I have two 1541's one came without return springs the other came with return springs. The one without return springs has a beefed up spring that separates brake at disc (spring that goes over sleeve/bushing). I had the same problem with my 1541 after replacing pads (pads were original and still plenty left) I replaced a weak spring where you adjust the brakes still not perfect I replaced the pads with another set of oem pads and they worked perfect. I also noticed the material I ordered was softer than the brake material I used to get, and the smell of the new brake material was/is horrendous.

Make sure springs bushings etc are all in good shape, for the disc I used a paint stripper made by 3m (black in color) mounted to electric drill it really cleaned the disc up looked like they were done by a pro. I would look at the brake material you used

edit- what is probably happening (what happened to me) is the brake material is not holding like it should so your having to put more tension on the brakes by adjusting then the lever on brake assembly cams over the notch that is ground on the end to actuate the brakes.. Long explanation

[cengleman]

I just replaced the brake pads on my 2072 a few days ago. The inside pads were down to the rivets, but the outside pads were fine. I used strips of brake material from McMaster Carr that were 1/4" thick.

When I put the inner brake pads with the new material between the caliper bracket on the axle carrier and the brake disc, I had the same type of problem you described. It looks like someone moved the brackets outward to compensate for the uneven wear on the inside pads. I loosened the two nuts beneath the axle carrier and moved the bracket inward (toward the center of the tractor) on the axle carrier just a fraction. I think this provides a more even release between the inside and outside pads. It may be your inside pads that are too close. Just a thought. Good Luck.