Kohler KT17 Series II Questions

[wig]

Question #1: Do I have to pull the jugs off to reseat the valves? #2 How do you remove the valves? #3 Are series I heads the same as series II?Thanks for any help. Curtis

[Matt G.]

I'm not sure what you mean by 'reseat' the valves, but if you need to grind them, then you don't have to remove the jugs. Series I heads should be the same as Series II heads. Before taking anything apart, go here and download the service manual for the KT-17 from Kohler:

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinec...eries=K-Series

[R Bedell]

Curtis:



Originally, the jugs on the Series I and Series II had two different part numbers. I don't know the difference between them.

I have never ground the valves on my KT-17 while in the motor. I would think it would just be easier if the jugs were off the motor and on a bench. Just my thoughts.

[wig]

Matt. I meant grind the valves. They are not seating good.Also if I were to pull off the jugs and heads only how much trouble is it to get the pistons back up into the cylinder?Also here is my number if someone could call me. (913)220-5862 Thanks Curtis

Curtis

I tried to point this out in another thread, it' just my opinion.

If your valves are worn chances are so is everything else and one thing leads to another.

I'm guessing you'll have about $60 in gaskets and guides etc.. just to grind the valves but if you're gonna go that far why not remove the jugs? and if you're gonna go that far why not replace the rings? and if you're gonna go that far why not have the bores trued? because they're not now. and if you're gonna go that far then the improved compression will put a new strain on the rods and as I stated it's after all that that you'll soon break the rod and damage a jug or the block itself.


To answer the question about the jug and piston-

Unbolt the jug and pull it off the studs and then remove the wrist pin leaving the piston in the jug, if you go this route do not remove the piston, there's not need to just to do your valves. It's just me but that's a lot of effort, time, and money for a bandaid.

Scott

Only you will know the overall condition of your motor as you didn't mention the amount of hours or the condition of other parts so it's your judgment call but I would think that if you have lost compression that your rings are shot too and your bore is out of round. How do you know that your valves are not seating? Is it that visually obvious? If so then the rest is that worn too.

Scott

Is there anything in particular that caused the damage to the valves? water in the gas? How many hours on this motor? If you're in the 1200 hour range it's near the end of it's life anyway.

Scott