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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
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Ok guys here goes nothing. I have a 106 IH Cub. I had an an issue with it grounding out because the wiring was brittle and the loom was old. So I gutted the old harness and went to replace it with some diagrams I found on the net. Being a journeyman electrician I thought this wouldnt be too hard but I was wrong. I ran all new wires with new connections one at a time careful not to cross anything and hooked everything up and one wire caught on fire. Turns out my starting soleniod was bad and was grounded out. I also replaced the starter switch and light switch. I hooked up the battery and the motor turns over in every key position and my Voltage regulator chatters like crazy. I removed the cover and found it had a strong blue arc going between my outermost two contacts just before the ground wire for that burnt up. Could the VR have gone bad with the solenoid went to ground and now it needs replaced? Also on the dc amp gauge are you supposed to be able to read continuity between the positive and negative terminal? The tractor ran great two years ago and I cant think why it wouldnt again once after the wiring is fixed... Also I did NOT reconnect the neutral safety switch. I simply wired passed it. Can anyone shed some light on what Im missing here? Can a guy cross reference the number and get the vr at an auto parts store? And can I bypass the amp gauge. Thanks in advance!
P.S. copy and paste the blob below to your brower bar and you can find the wiring diagram that I followed when rewiring my cub http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...ed=0CDYQ9QEwBA |
#2
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Welcome to OCC. you are using the correct schematic. Its is also in the service manual which is under the technical library tractors section. Sounds like your V/R has stuck tips. There is one set of tips that are N/O and one set that are N/C. You need to verify you have correct placement of all wires to it. I know youve probably been over it a bunch but double check anyway. You should have 1 cable and one control wire going to A terminal of S/G and one control wire going to F terminal of S/G correct?
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#3
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Uh....that diagram would be mine, and is found in our Technical Library Section.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#4
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Alvy: I do have all the wires you described and it matches the schematic. I had all these problems with it Friday night and then came back with a clear mind saturday. Same issues. I had another mechanic buddy of mine do some double checking with my fluke meter and nothing is going to ground that shouldnt be and we disconnected one wire at a time and rang it out to verify that I didnt miss something .
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#5
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R Bedell: Thank you for the diagram. It was very helpful . I did check every wire individually with my fluke and they are not shorted to ground or burnt up. And on the diagram I noticed that it showed the option of not having the amp gauge and all those wires would just land on a terminal block or a wire nut essentially correct?? I am going to order a new VR because there was a ton of carbor smoke on the inside of it and lots of little bbs from the contacts arcing
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#6
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#7
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Okay so i ordered a VR from Napa today and will have it tomorrow. I plan on tying everything together at the amp gauge and by passing it all together (for fear of it being bad) since it reads continuity from each post to the mounting bracket and ground. So I am hopeful that everything will turn over like it should. Only question I have, is the VR I purchased going to get wired back in the same way as in the schematic? Since you gave me that part number I assume that was a crossed ref. number so it would essentially be a plug and play type deal right?
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#8
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#9
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I did look at the new napa part and the terminals are F, BAT, and L. My original one was BAT, GEN, and F. I hooked it up with the just as the diagram showed and assumed that Gen and L were the same and I got the exact same result. ( Motor cranks in any key position) I did find that my new key cylinder was bad and exchanged it at farm and fleet and tested the new one before installing it. It checked out with my meter. Also wired in the Neutral safety switch. But still same result. I even flipped the incoming wires to the VR on the Gen and F terminals. Now when I hook the battery up it only turns over with the clutch in and does nothing in the other key positions. You can hear the starter solenoid click and the amp gauge buries on the discharge end even in the off position. It is getting a massive draw. My dad and I went through and unlanded every wire and rang them out and identified them. I am wired Exactly how the diagram shows except for the VR. He is going to call the dealer tomorrow and talk to someone. I am just at a total loss. This may be trivial but do I need a hard wired ground from the gen to the frame? I assumed it was grounded by the adjustment slide.
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#10
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you need to have a good ground to the vr or it will cause that.
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