More on the 982

toyman · #1 01-20-2010, 08:01 PM

So, as I was tuning up the Onan, I noticed some oil/sludge build up on the undercarriage at the front of the tractor. As I investigated further - removed hood, lights, grill, and engine shrouds - I found a good deal of sludge build up on the outside of the front of the engine and a lot of oil soaked grass on the frame rails. Then I removed the mufflers and cleaned off a good deal of the build up. No puddles on the ground, so I'm thinking that this didn't build up over nite. Anyway, I fired her up, no mufflers, and took a close look at the bearing gasket area, the front seal area and the cam plug. I was expecting to have oil slung on me from the crank, but that didn't happen. I did notice some oil starting to seep a little on the left side of the bearing plate. I need some more cleaner to get it really cleaned up, so I finished up for the nite. But, not before I noticed that drive shaft couplers at the front of the engine are ragged and need replaced. (I was assessing the work I'll have to do if I need to pull the engine)

So, I think my next potential tasks will be: (Hopefully not removing the engine)

1) Finish cleaning and then assess where the leak is coming from

2) Remove PTO (any hints/tricks are appreciated!)

3) Potentially replace front seal and/or bearing plate gasket.

4) Replace front rag joints

5) Reassemble.

I think if I need to pull the engine, I'll tear her down and prep for paint.

Matt G. · #2 01-20-2010, 09:27 PM

I would not paint that tractor if it were mine...it's only original once, and yours looks really nice from the pictures you've put on here....

ajgross · #3 01-21-2010, 04:06 AM

Just to mention that it's not hard to pull the engine on one of these. Or at least not hard enough to justify a complete tear down. All you have to do to pull the engine is disconnect the wiring ( don't forget the starter wire), disconnect the fuel line, disconnect the carb cables, disconnect the driveshaft, and then it's just 6 bolts. Problably takes no more that 20 to 30 minutes tops. I have a 782 completely tore down and it probably took me 3 hours it get it apart.

AJ

toyman · #4 01-22-2010, 08:29 PM

OK! Just got back from the shop. Matt, I may just do the non-restoration! Your info was spot on. I removed the 3 nuts/springs and then 4 allen screws. Everything slid right off with no issue. Then I removed the engine bolts and disonnected the drive shaft. My local dealer had rag joints for the same price as the net, so I picked two up tonite and installed them. Cleaned up all the crud on the engine mounting plate and on the engine. After I got it all cleaned up and the new rag joints in, I re-connected the motor to the drive shaft and torqued the mounting bolts. Then I fired her up! Started without an issue and then I checked the front of the engine again for leaks. I don't think it's the front seal. I think it's the bearing plate gasket. I placed an order (jacks small engine) for a bunch of parts and hopefully they will be here next week. If I have to remove the bearing plate, I'll replace the crank seal also. I ordered the seal, bearing gasket, points, condensor, plug wires, points gasket, points plunger, and few other items.

I took pics, but I didn't get a chance to down load. I'll post them when I'm done. Thanks again for the info!

toyman · #5 01-23-2010, 06:30 AM

some pics

Rhoderman · #6 01-23-2010, 11:38 AM

I'd think it was the shaft seal. How can oil get onto the plate in the pic below if it's the plate seal? I think oil is walking down the shaft and getting flung off right behind the PTO.

The shaft seal is an easy change with a hook type seal yanker. I'd change it first, clean it all up and run it. If it still leaks, I was wrong.

aagitch · #7 01-23-2010, 04:07 PM

I think i'd try the shaft seal too since it is currently accessible.

Mountain Heritage · #8 01-28-2010, 07:34 PM

You better get your camera charged up for next week's operation on the front of that engine!

#9 02-01-2010, 01:19 AM

If you have not dug into this yet-

The pressurized oil journal is about at the 11 oclock position on the bearing plate and this is where it is leaking from. I replaced both the plate and shaft seal on mine last summer. You don't have to pull the motor but do remove your key and be careful not to scar the bearing with you remove the plate. Easy to do and the cost is around $38 IIRR.

Scott

toyman · #10 02-01-2010, 01:14 PM

Scott - I believe you are right on. I fired up the tractor on Saturday, just to see how she'd do in 12 degree weather.:biggrin2.gif:, and she turned a little slow, but she caught and ran solid. Then I got my light out and ear muffs on (loud with no mufflers). I could see the oil seeping right at 11:00 as you said. Enough to create a drip down that made it to the base of the engine. I have a bunch of parts coming including a seal and bearing plate gasket, so they'll both get replaced.

Yesterday I spent a few hours in the shop removing the bearing plate and cleaning off the old gasket material. What a pain, having to make sure nothing gets on the crank journal or in the motor. I was hoping I could see a connecting rod, but no luck. Parts should be here today, and I'll try to fire up the camera for MH and post a few pics. Hopefully this will be the end for a while, and not just the beginning of a bigger project!