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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
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I was jump starting my 149 yesterday and accidentally crossed the polarity of the cables.
![]() There was no sparking, smoke or flames, but I can only get it to start now if I hot wire the starter/generator. It runs fine, and the headlights work, so I don't think I killed that much. I'm thinking that I only killed the starter solenoid. Any suggestions before I buy one?
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Steve, Former multiple 149 owner. Left the tractors back east when we moved to Nevada. One went to South Jersey, the other to Long Island. |
#2
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IF you have a DVM or VOM, you could see what the resistance between the small (#10) terminal and the case of the solenoid. If you have some resistance, say < 2K, chances that the coil is good. If it is open (or infinite) then the solenoid is toast.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#3
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If I remember correctly, most of those starter solenoids have an internal diode to protect it. Better chance that you killed the battery. Unless, when you say you short the starter you are using the battery on the machine. I guess you didn't specify, I just assumed you were doing it with jumper cables and another battery.
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#4
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I did start it with another battery by hot wiring the starter with cables. The reason that I ruled out the battery is that the head and tail lights are still working. The solenoid was clicking before I crossed the polarity, but does nothing now. It only starts if I power the S/G directly from the second battery.
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Steve, Former multiple 149 owner. Left the tractors back east when we moved to Nevada. One went to South Jersey, the other to Long Island. |
#5
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The amp draw required to power the lights is VERY minimal. Even a bad battery will power them. Do as Roland suggested and test the solenoid. If you find nothing, test or replace the battery.
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#6
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Just went out and tried it with a different battery. Still no start with the key switch.
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Steve, Former multiple 149 owner. Left the tractors back east when we moved to Nevada. One went to South Jersey, the other to Long Island. |
#7
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There ya go! Well, solenoid is cheaper than a battery!
On a side note, I did the same thing on my shop forklift once. The battery was getting weak and we had to put the charger on it occasionally. Well, I was in a hurry and talking on the phone while trying to hook up the charger. Yeah..... I cross connected it. Long story short, it got the battery and that was it. Went over to start it and it wouldn't do anything. I thought it was weird for as long as the charger had been on it. Then I realized what I did. Man, that battery was HOT! We've all been there!! ![]() |
#8
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Steve,
Check your pto safety switch and brake pedal spring and see if it they are working,you know how those break....
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#9
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I don't think it's the safety switches. All was well until I crossed the polarity.
How about the key switch? Could I have messed that up? Maybe not because the "run" position is till good.
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Steve, Former multiple 149 owner. Left the tractors back east when we moved to Nevada. One went to South Jersey, the other to Long Island. |
#10
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Having a VOM and a test light are invaluable in this case. Swap tronix works but its better and cheaper to find out with a meter.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
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