Custom IHCC drive clutch

[theyoungn96]

Hows every one tonight? I've been wondering if anyone has designed their own clutch setup yet? not so much as a puller (I know all the mods for that) but just as a better improvement over stock. mine likes to eat the shield off the throw-out bearing and wondered if anyone else did the same? And yes, its all adjusted right. Ijust think the bearings become dry and start dragging...I've drawn up some ideas to make mine more (vehicle like). Has anyone else?

Thanks

[Yosemite Sam]

Kinda sounds like the humps are worn off of your lever.

Hmmm, not exactly sure why that sounds dirty but it sorta does.

[Merk]

Are you using a Cub Cadet bearing?

There is nothing wrong with the way IH Cub Cadet design and manufactured the clutch-driveshaft assembly. Something is not set right and there are some parts that need replace if you are loosing the sheild off the throwout bearing.

When I rebuild a clutch I do the following:
1. new clutch disc-garden tractor pulling sites that sell parts have a cheaper price on clutch disc.
2. Clutch disc are trued on a lathe (only way to true them).
3. new springs
4. pilot bushing is replaced if needed
5. pins in drive plate are replace
6. yoke is inspected-replace if needed
7. clutch lever is inspected-replace if needed
8. new throwout bearing-I use Cub Cadet bearings
9. driveshaft is inspected-replace if needed
10. all pins in the driveshaft are replaced

I change several things on my IH Cub Cadet 100. The clutch disc is made out of kevlar material. I replace the big factory spring with one like miller has on his web site. The spring is rated 450 to 500 pounds. Stock spring is rated at 200 to 250 pounds. I use a split collar to hold spring tension on the clutch instead the pin that Cub Cadet used. The area where the yoke connects to the tower has been beef up so the that area doesn't flex when I push the clutch in. I do not put the spring that goes on the driving disc. My 100 pulls a 10 inch plow and the engine has been modified.

My Wife likes to drive the 100. She has no problem with the clutch set I have in it. Clutch slipage is next to none wit his set up.

[theyoungn96]

merk, how we doing. saw you at lima's rpru13(my home town). anywho, ive done all this and yes i buy from HG Violets in delphos and make sure they are true OEM parts. i also have a 70 & 100 and have had no issues. Just my dads 1200. i had a new drive shaft made, turned down the pressure plates at work and even milled the teaser spring surface on the one plate to get rid of the grooves. so idk. only thing im going to try this time is drilling a small hole in the back bearing cover so i can use my grease needle on it. maybe its just drying out? i just never remember this much of a problem in all my years!

[Merk]

I live around 8 miles from H. G.

I'm still recovering Red Power show. Not as young as I used to be.

The small hole in the bearing is a good thing to do. I would put a a little dab of gasket sealer on the hole you made. It helps to keep grease in and the moisture and dirt out.

[Yosemite Sam]

Where does the wear occur on the shield?

Any pictures?

[theyoungn96]

Behind the clutch fork is where the bearing tears into it and can see the old vs new bearing, old one the shield is gone. we dont ride the clutch and when the clutch is adjusted there is gap between the bearing and fork so it doesnt rub. we dont even plow snow with it anymore like we use to because i use my 100 for that. this 1200 is just a summer time yard worker. tractor was bought new in 77 and dads never had this many issues with the bearing.

[J-Mech]

Do you replace the fork when you put a new bearing in? Or, at least repair that one? It's wore down enough to cause problems....

Something isn't right. Is the hanger for the thro-out fork twisted?

[theyoungn96]

this is the old fork....yes i replaced it. yes ik this is a problem. my bearing has to be getting dry and the hole thing starts to spins against the fork and starts eatting the heck out of it. and no there is no wear in the hanger...its also new. these use to be good bearings and now there are china made a&l and dont last.

[J-Mech]

I think I'd go get a "real" bearing before I redesigned the clutch. Leave it to MTD to cheapen up parts for the older machines