Mower deck performance comparison

[mike melillo]

Since I'm considering a new and larger deck I thought I would ask if anyone can offer a comparison between the various deck styles in how well they do their job against each other.

The drive will be a 149 and I have a 421 U 113 that does a pretty decent job on dry grass, but I have no idea how they work against the 48 or 50 A or C versions. I would expect the later versions have better lift (meaning vacuum) and discharge power, because of the deeper stamping and blade difference.

Would you agree with my assumptions or otherwise?

Thanks
Mike

[drglinski]

I've used a 48" on a 147 & 125 as well as a 50" on a 782 and I'll take the 48" one all day long. I wasn't impressed with the 50" at all.

[cubby102]

i loved the way my 50 inch on my old 1650 cut by far the best and smoothest cutter ive had yet, i think it all boils down to if everything is in good working order they should be about the same, the only thing i didnt like about the 50 is i got alot of small dips and hills in my yard and it liked to scalp if i wasnt carefull which i didnt have with the 38 i had on my 102

[Maxwelhse]

I've also mowed with a 38" on a 102 and didn't notice it scalping any worse than the 44As on my 1650 and 149. I'm not sure what deck my Dad's 123 has under it, but it also scalped just as badly as any Cub deck I've ever used (meaning, they all scalp like crazy, in my experience). I've yet to use my 50A decks, but I don't expect anything dramatically different from the 44A in that regard.

With a 149 the most straight forward choice is a 44A or 50A... Just make sure you get the 4" top drive pulley (or buy one and put it on) and you'll be as golden as you can be. I just recently swapped one of my 44As to the 4" pulley and I feel that it makes a massive difference. Quality of cut and mowing speed are both notably better.

I still think the NF mowers produce a better cut, but that might just my mind playing tricks on me. I've never had the chance to do an actual heads-up shoot out on them side-by-side.

[zippy1]

I've got the 44c on the 782 and 50c on the 1650 and they both cut very nice, but leave turned up sod after a sharp down hill turn. Need front wheel kit.
The 42" and 48" I have for the 122 cut very nice also, but just aren't as good in my opinion.

[Maxwelhse]

Originally Posted by zippy1

Need front wheel kit.

I concur... I would really like to convert my decks to gauge wheels instead of anti-scalp wheels (that really don't work for that purpose).

[Yosemite Sam]

Originally Posted by mike melillo

I would expect the later versions have better lift (meaning vacuum) and discharge power, because of the deeper stamping and blade difference.

Yes Mike I do agree, to look at the three styles of mower deck, Cast end type, Cast center type, and Stamped 44/50" type. One would think that the Stamped 44/50 style decks would be the best, however I have heard a lot of discussion to the contrary. I personally have never had a stamped deck attached to any of my tractors and really don't know that I want too, after hearing so many bad reviews, so I can not speak to that from experience.

I do use the cast end and cast center decks, and personally I like the cast end decks best as far as overall appearance when the job is done. As far as the cast center decks go, the narrower the deck the nicer the job looks.

When it comes to the scalping issue, I have always figured that if my deck scalps the lawn, then it (the lawn) more than likely has imperfections in it and the area that gets scalped is either an unwanted hump or there is a "pot hole" that the tractor tires are dropping into causing the scalp. In either event I don't consider that to be the fault of the tractor or mower deck, however in almost every situation, a wider deck will scalp more than a narrow deck.

Please understand that these are just observations from my own experience with my own equipment, and they do not necessarily reflect the views...

[1969cub]

The factory deck on my 109 is ok but not that great. I am not sure the style or size, maybe I can post a pic so you guys can tell me. The 2 issues with my deck is if the grass is just a little to tall or wet the output clogs up and I have noticed if I am cutting straight lines it cuts decent but it leaves grass behind when turning so I have gotten used to making wide turns so I can cut straight all the time.

I really want to get a better deck so this is of interest to me.

[mike melillo]

Good points on the comparisons. I dont know what the difference between gauge wheels vs.Anti-scalp wheels is, but I'm interested to know. It seems like the feedback is split on this. But I am growing weary of the larger decks.

In my opinion scalping is defiantly an issue largely brought on by uneven terrine, but can be more frequent by larger decks, and or with decks with poorly designed anti scalp wheels.

I have been focusing on the aspects of the vacuum and span of cut that I forgot about how much of a nuisance it is when the blades hit the dirt. I have a few trouble spots in my lawn where I know I need to be careful about how I approach, but I don't get a lot of issues with scalping. The discussion made me recall that I modified my deck several years back because of this issue, and not being happy with the wheels on the deck at the time.

I found a set of 8" solid plastic wheels with bushings and a 1/2" bolt for mounting. Since than these wheels have been really great, and they are barely worn. I keep my blades at 2-1/2" from a flat surface, and the front roller is off the ground. Images are in float position, and thats how I mow. The deck is a 42" cast center. The cut is really clean.

I suppose those wheels I have may be causing a loss of vacuum, but the benefits are worth it.

Right now it's pouring rain out, and my lawn is getting taken over by rethread anyway. If it's not one thing it's another

Mike

[Sam Mac]

I'll stick with the Big Dogs, 60" Habans rule.