1250 Cub Cadet- No Fire, Even Via Straight Wire

[AppalachianMachine]

Hey, I'm a poet and I didn't even know it...

I purchased a 1250 Cub Cadet for the 1A tiller on the back. The little tractor seemed to be in excellent condition, so I decided to try to get it running.

Even with a fresh battery and sitting on it, the key would not start the Cub. When I say start it, I mean it would not even turn over or click.

So today, I made sure the starter was functional. It is.

I jumped it directly from the battery to the starter, the start is fine.

Having done that, I went and bought a new condenser(closest I could get was a 6cyl Chevy interchange condenser), a new coil, new 216 Autolite plug, and I cleaned the points(which were newer factory Kohler and looked ok after Scotchbrite.

I then put on the coil and condenser, and checked out the points to make sure they were opening, all was copacetic.

With that done, I ran a lead from the hot on the battery to (+) position on the coil, I also had the wires from the tractor hooked to the coil. The points and coil were hooked to the (-) terminal, and I ran a lead from them to the negative terminal on the battery.

I then jumped off the starter directly from the battery(ie the battery was hooked straight to the starter and not to the wiring harness).

No love. The engine turned over great, but there was clearly no sound of combustion or popping off.

While turning it over, I checked the timing.

Can I not get away with straight wiring the engine to battery to try to test it ? Was my mistake using the factory wiring harness when I didn't have the battery plugged into it ? Should I have run a wire from the (-) post/condenser on the coil directly to the points and another directly to the battery ?

Any other thoughts or advice at this time ?

[Mike McKown]

Unless I missed something, your engine should have started unless you have a malfunction.

Stick a 12 volt test light on the minus side of your coild and note the results. If the points are "making" and and "breakng", you should see a bright on/off/of/off of your test light. NOT dim/bright/dim.

[fleetlines]

Welcome to OCC.

I take it you have compression and it's getting gas. As I understand it, the points need cleaned with paper or a bill but I have used very fine sand paper or emery board with great results. Perhaps it's the Scotchbrite. I know nothing about Scotchbright. Does your coil have an internal resistor? The condensor will keep it from starting also. Our Napa sells these parts for Kohler. Also, I would have ground the engine elsewhere too. I've started engines hooked directly to the battery but I don't recall the makers of any. I don't see why it wouldn't get spark unless you need the Voltage Regulator on the Kohlers. Sometimes you can get a plug that's faulted. Do you still have the safety switch (clutch and PTO) wired in? Have you traced where you start to not get power? Sorry I couldn't be of more help. These guys know there stuff and will get you going.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by AppalachianMachine

With that done, I ran a lead from the hot on the battery to (+) position on the coil, I also had the wires from the tractor hooked to the coil. The points and coil were hooked to the (-) terminal, and I ran a lead from them to the negative terminal on the battery.

If I understand this part correctly... You ran a wire from the (+) of the battery to the (+) of the coil. Then you ran a wire from the - of the coil to the - of the battery and then to the points?.....

Coil (+) = Battery (+)
Coil (-) = to the points/ condenser.

That is how it should be. If you ran a wire from the battery (-) to the coil (-) you killed the fire.

[R Bedell]

The negative (Black) wire can NOT be installed to the negative side ( - ) of the ignition coil. It needs to be connected to a good clean spot on the engine block.

(A) Did you check to see if the PTO Switch is in the off position...?? (B) Did you check the Neutral Safety Switch when depressing the LH Brake Pedal..??

[jcrews]

Hello if I read this correctly
You are unable to start this tractor with the switch but could at first could hotwire and crank from the starter and the that stopped working. I had the identical problem with my 1250 and found the circuit in the voltmeter was broken and fixed it by running a jumper wire between the mounting post on the back of the voltmeter and it has worked ever since.
I hope this helps

[sawdustdad]

R Bedell is correct, you need to connect the points and condenser to the coil (-) terminal, and the battery (-) to an engine ground. The points, when they close, grounds the (-) terminal of the coil. You've bypassed the points with your arrangement.

I've started engines with a portable jumper pack by placing the (-) clamp to the frame near the engine, run a small wire to the (+) terminal on the coil from the battery pack (+), and touch the (+) cable clamp to the outside terminal on the starter generator.

[ACecil]

Welcome to OCC! Nice to see another NC member! Good luck with your 1250.

[Yosemite Sam]

Welcome to OCC

Originally Posted by J-Mech

If I understand this part correctly... You ran a wire from the (+) of the battery to the (+) of the coil. Then you ran a wire from the - of the coil to the - of the battery and then to the points?.....

Coil (+) = Battery (+)
Coil (-) = to the points/ condenser.

That is how it should be. If you ran a wire from the battery (-) to the coil (-) you killed the fire.

This is exactly correct.

[R Bedell]

If you are going to eliminate the Ignition & Safety Switches for testing purposes....then use this diagram....