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My 104 has what appears to be a fairly good condition wiring harness on it...looks original, too. Well, it starts either in neutral OR IN GEAR and the wire to the safety switch is not connected. So, whenver I start it in neutral and depress the clutch/brake, the drive shaft does not stop and I cannot shift into any gear unless I grind the gears. However, if I start it in gear, then I can depress the clutch and the driveshaft stops quickly and I can shift into any gear without any problem and continue this as much as I like. So, why can't I start it in neutral, then depress the clutch and stop the driveshaft and shift?
I think it is a stuck plate, but I am not for sure... Thanks in advance for your assistance! Cub Cadet 123
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#3
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Often times when I start messing with a tractor that has set for a long time, the rear plate will be a little tight on the shaft (from rust) and not slipping rearward (like it should) when first released. Most of the time it will "clear up" on it's own. You may be able to make the problem "go away" quicker by putting some of your favorite penetrating oil on the shaft where it goes through the rear plate.
Another problem I have ran into is, the outer disks in the clutch will separate from the metal disk in between, and they "spring apart" when the rear plate slides back and never really lose contact. It really doesn't take much to make the shaft turn with the other rotating parts. If that is the case you may be able to tighten the nut on the clutch release rod a little, so the rear plate will slip away from the disk a little more. However if there is already a space between the throw out bearing, teaser spring and rear disk when the pedal is pushed down, then adjusting is not an option because there is already enough room for the rear disk to slide rearward. Again though, I mostly find this in tractors that have sat for a long time and once the rear plate loosens itself up the problem goes away.
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#4
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Thanks guys....I figured it to be my rear plate, but wasn't for sure. I will have another go at it again, as time permits me to do so. I'll re-post when I get a chance if my problem still is not solved. It has sat for many years and the entire throttle linkage was rusted up, but some PB blaster freed that up....now maybe it will resolve my clutch issue as well.
Sincerely, Cub Cadet 123
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#5
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Squirt some on the front of the shaft where it goes into the pilot bushing too.
After they have sat for a long time, they will free themselves up with use, depending of course what the problem is. Gotta watch out for the clutch disk coming apart though... They can be dangerous. Good luck
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#6
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Cub Cadet 123
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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