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  #1  
Old 05-16-2013, 06:50 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Default Cyclops pump adapters

Latest project after I got P.O.d at CUB letting the pump adapters go NLA for the Cyclops tractors with the Sundstrand pumps was to see if I could come up with a replacement that was also stronger than the OEM part. I called Cub to see if they had any plans on making more of these and the attitude was we could care less you have an obsolete tractor “ have you looked for them on the web” give me a break. Gotta love it I’m not gonna part out a perfectly good tractor over a crappy part like this. Glad I took drafting in school. These engage the whole shaft, the flange is also threaded so you don’t need 3 hands to get everything lined up. Only problem is they will be in the $100 ea. range. I want to get one of them installed and test it before I offer them for sale. I think the test unit will be my 1572 so I can also try out a drive shaft conversion at the same time. The diesel's are hard on drivelines so it seems like the way to go.
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  #2  
Old 05-16-2013, 06:55 PM
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Is this for only if equipped with the rear pto?
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  #3  
Old 05-16-2013, 07:06 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
"The diesel's are hard on drivelines so it seems like the way to go."
Sam, since your working on improving the driveline... I have a couple questions. 1.) You say diesels are hard an drivelines. What fails? The joints? Or the adapters? 2.) Have you thought about trying to incorporate a harmonic balancer? On diesel pickups, some have a balancer on the driveline. The motors have so much vibration that it helps keep them quieter, and less abuse on the joints. I know that it may be more $$ than it's worth..... Just asking
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  #4  
Old 05-16-2013, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Sam, since your working on improving the driveline... I have a couple questions. 1.) You say diesels are hard an drivelines. What fails? The joints? Or the adapters? 2.) Have you thought about trying to incorporate a harmonic balancer? On diesel pickups, some have a balancer on the driveline. The motors have so much vibration that it helps keep them quieter, and less abuse on the joints. I know that it may be more $$ than it's worth..... Just asking
Good idea but it is so cramped for space I don't know how you would fit one in. Most of the diesels are in the 72 series and have rag joints. What I'm trying to do is use the later 2000 or 3000 series shaft modified to fit into 1572 and 1772 tractors. The Cyclops have the CV shafts and so far they seem to be ok. Problem is the length is different in the 72 series from the Cyclops because the 72's have the radiator in the front and the Cyclops have it in the back so the engine location is different. Stay tuned.
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  #5  
Old 05-16-2013, 09:56 PM
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Hmmmmmmmmm,,,,,,

That splined joint is susceptible to rust. The Mitsubishi MT 372 had a similar spline on the mower drive, it is also a diesel.



When I had the MT 372, I used to disassemble and grease it EVERY year, my splined joint survived well. The MT 372 part is also a NLA. A lot of MT 372s' are DOA because of the unavailability of that part.

It might be worthwhile considering a grease fitting on the adapter, for that reason.
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  #6  
Old 05-17-2013, 07:11 AM
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CAD

The adapter is not supposed to move on the shaft. This goes on the pump input. For what it's worth I'm gonna put a little JB weld on the splines when I put it on and Loc-Tite the bolt.
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  #7  
Old 05-17-2013, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
CAD

The adapter is not supposed to move on the shaft. This goes on the pump input. For what it's worth I'm gonna put a little JB weld on the splines when I put it on and Loc-Tite the bolt.
The one on the MT 372 was just a slide together spline connection. I do not think anyone thought about the way the rust would go away so fast, causing the joint to be short-lived.

The mower deck, and I believe the entire mower drive was Haban, similar construction to the Cub Cadet 1872 deck.

So I believe there was little design interaction between Mitsubishi and Haban.
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  #8  
Old 05-17-2013, 09:01 AM
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i like where your going with this. id love to get rid of that whimpy drive shaft.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:07 AM
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whats the difference between the 72 and 82 series drive shaft? i know length is, how much are they off by? anything else?
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127 - 48'' deck + tiller.
1512- 46" GT deck & bagger
1872- 60" Haban
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Ford 850
International TD-8E
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  #10  
Old 05-17-2013, 09:17 AM
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Ken

The 72 is the rag joint type, the 82 is the CV type. Problem with the 82 style is they have splines on the ends to fit into the CV joint and they are a PITA to shorten and get them straight. I'm going to try using a 2000 series shaft. I can cut it, put a section of 5/8" shaft inside and then drill it and pin it for what ever length I need. I've done this on the JD dumper I built last year and so far it's working.
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