Narrow Frame Rear Lift "Hitch" Question

Tool Maker · #1 03-11-2013, 02:53 AM

A friend of mine told me I need one of these to pull my plow as the standard hitch is prone for ripping out the threads in the rear end. Now I can't argue with him because I don't have the experience but I don't believe there is anything wrong with the original design. This would or is just extra insurance in my opinion but there again a very inexperienced opinion. I need some insight before I open my mouth to him!

The Link:
http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part.../CC-29-010.htm

fleetlines · #2 03-11-2013, 03:46 AM

I believe xtrememotorworks make good parts and these look pretty good. I've been caught and it stop me dead in my tracks with no damage. I've attached cubs to my sons progressively larger 4 wheelers to pull against each other with no problems. (Heavy 1650 weighted and loaded tires won every time) I've pulled logs and stumps that could only be described as straight abuse with no ill effect. Also, a tiller turns backward to help slow the tractor rather than propel it and that's a lot of rough force as well. Under "normal" use, I don't think it's needed. Just make sure you get the right length bolts in the right holes back there or you can bust the casing. There are two different lengths for bolts around that plate.

Tool Maker · #3 03-11-2013, 09:50 AM

I will check the bolt length when I pull the v-shaped ball hitch and put the sleeve hitch bracket in behind it. May pull one and make a trip to hardware store before hand just in case. Unless you meant the bottom ones are already longer say compared to one in the top. Either way I will be covered. Thanks.

drglinski · #4 03-11-2013, 09:58 AM

Added insurance isn't a bad idea, but I believe the original design is fine.

mmzullo · #5 03-11-2013, 10:49 AM

Don't bother unless the holes are stripped out the of rear end. I use studs on the bottom 3 holes. So when you have to change the diff oil or hitch you don't have to wear out the treads in the rear. 1 of my tractors has a loose threads and I just went to the studs for that reason and never had a problem(knock wood).

Sam Mac · #6 03-11-2013, 10:56 AM

Wouldn’t take much to add the tabs on the side to your existing hitch. For that matter you could call Aaron at Xtream and he would probably sell you just the tabs.

fleetlines · #7 03-11-2013, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tool Maker

I will check the bolt length when I pull the v-shaped ball hitch and put the sleeve hitch bracket in behind it. May pull one and make a trip to hardware store before hand just in case. Unless you meant the bottom ones are already longer say compared to one in the top. Either way I will be covered. Thanks.

Be sure to have a clean pan ready as taking a bolt out could cause it to leak. The only fluid that works (Hy-Tran) is like $25 a gallon and it takes 7 quarts. Also, it sounds like a good time to open it up and check the inside there. I've cut the new gasket out of tarpaper and it works fine. You will definitely want to change the filter if you change the Hy-Tran. Make sure you get the right filter. They look like an oil filter but are different on the inside. Some manufacturers say theirs will work but some don't. http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12

I've seen where others have stripped those bolts and needed a helicoil so your buddy may not be out of line. I figured they got stripped from over tightening. The bolts can bottom out in there. Right now I'm not recalling which ones are the longer ones.

Mr.Goffena · #8 03-11-2013, 11:52 PM

I must say I have abused the crap out of mine. I have a 149 weighted down with 110lbs of wheel weights and filled tires plus two 75lb tractor weights strapped down on the hood to keep the front wheels on the ground. When it stalls out or starts spinning the tires I back up and foot or two and slam the hydro forward. I know one of these days something will give. I do like the idea of studding the housing. Lucky for me my backyard should never have to be plowed again. And by no way do i suggest that anyone should do what I have done to this poor tractor it is beyond abuse.

Merk · #9 03-12-2013, 05:55 AM

I have bent the 3 hole dual tab without ears. The 3 hole dual tab with ears is what I will adding to my Cub Cadets that are used to hard ground engaging work. It is cheap insurrance in my book.

The dual tab is a must on any IH Cub Cadet. I've rework the holes on sleeve hitches adapters because they were egg shape from not having support on both sides of the sleeve hitch adapter.

Quote:

by fleetlines
Also, a tiller turns backward to help slow the tractor rather than propel it and that's a lot of rough force as well.

The tiller tines turns forward. The tractor is used to hold back the tiller.

fleetlines · #10 03-12-2013, 12:33 PM

If yours had been stripped or bent already they would be just the ticket to help keep it from happening again. I was very concerned about this when I was putting mine together as it looked weak to me. At that time I didn't know these existed. All said, I'd like to have one just for the piece of mind since I am very rough on mine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merk

The tiller tines turns forward. The tractor is used to hold back the tiller.

Merk, you're absolutely right.

- I shouldn't post in the middle of the night after a hard day.