Multiple problems on the "O"

ricks · #1 02-22-2013, 10:45 PM

I haven't posted in a while, been sick and tired. My original decided to be sick as well, with 1. not starting, then got it running but can't run it past idle, and now 2., the metal housing that holds the fuel bowl leaks. new o ring on the petcock, and the bowl, no leaks from the tank where it's screwed into. is it possible that the metal housing is cracked? it ran fine back in September when I drove it into the garage, and it's just been sitting ever since. I replaced a bad coil, and have cleaned the carb twice now and it still won't rev past fast idle. I'm just trying to find a direction to head. Points are set, timing is good. I've had this engine for four years and it never gave me any problems. It's an K181. I've cleaned the carb every year. I'm stumped.

Yosemite Sam · #2 02-23-2013, 01:05 AM

Screw the high speed needle in all the way while counting the number of revolutions to bottom, be sure not to tighten it down too much.

Then remove same needle, clean the tiny little holes with a small wire (do not enlarge these holes) then clean the inside of the needle from the bottom set of holes to the top. Screw needle back in (all the way) and back it out to where it was before.

This should help, but it probably needs to be removed, disassembled, soaked in carb cleaner blown out and have a kit installed. If you are spraying it with aerosol carb cleaner while it is still installed, you aren't doing anything but cleaning the outside of the carb and the bore, and that isn't where the problems are.

Please remember that 98% of all carburetor problems are electrical.

cubby102 · #3 02-23-2013, 01:20 AM

I've had multiple engines do this and they all ended up being something wrong with the condensor usually a bad wire and twice the condensor was bad... If you have one you could nab for testing purposes I would check there before doing anything else what color is the spark at the plug?

jbrewer · #4 02-23-2013, 07:34 AM

I suppose it's possible that the fuel bowl housing is cracked but I'd put that near the bottom of the list of possibilities. EVERY joint in that system is prone to leakage. I'd wipe the bowl and housing (and the joint at the tank) VERY clean, then see exactly where the fuel is leaking from. Often it's from more than one place.

Permatex (the type that stays soft) is very good at sealing thread to thread connections (that's what it's for). Fresh rubber gaskets are too. My O leaked like a sieve, and it took a complete remove and clean and seal carefully of every piece to get it to seal.

Gas is really good at leaking from one place and appearing to leak from another.

John

cubfixer · #5 02-23-2013, 09:55 AM

My 100 used to leak like a sieve from at the nipple above the sediment bowl. I even bought a NOS tank to fix the problem. Still leaked with a new brass nipple, a new steel nipple, a new sediment bowl, Permatex 2, Permatex, silicon, paint. Finally fixed it with JB Weld. No more leaks.

I HATE gas leaks!

ricks · #6 02-23-2013, 10:24 AM

Thanks for all of your suggestions guys. i will start with electrical first, since I know it's getting gas. I also read that the vent on the gas cap, if clogged, will cause a problem.
Screw the high speed needle in all the way while counting the number of revolutions to bottom, be sure not to tighten it down too much.

Then remove same needle, clean the tiny little holes with a small wire (do not enlarge these holes) then clean the inside of the needle from the bottom set of holes to the top. Screw needle back in (all the way) and back it out to where it was before.

This should help, but it probably needs to be removed, disassembled, soaked in carb cleaner blown out and have a kit installed. If you are spraying it with aerosol carb cleaner while it is still installed, you aren't doing anything but cleaning the outside of the carb and the bore, and that isn't where the problems are.

Please remember that 98% of all carburetor problems are electrical.
I"ve had the needle out twice to clean. While attempting to run at higher rpm's, I've tried turning it in and out to find that sweet spot. No luck. It still acts up. I thought for sure that was the problem.
I will put a new condenser on it, maybe check the points as well. What color is the spark suppose to be? Blue, white, orange? The snow will have melted by the time i get this fixed. Oh well, at least I'm not inside with........................

ricks · #7 02-23-2013, 03:11 PM

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Well I soaked the carb, blew it out. Rechecked the float specs. Put in a spare condenser, checked the spark color. same as before. unscrewed the gas cap, checked for obstructions in the line. Now I'm down to thinking the timing might be off. Oh, and I turned out the high speed screw to 3 1/2 turns and it ran better, but it still bucked and coughed then died. I've never timed this engine before and I'm not quite sure that there's an advance or retard. I always thought that if the marked teeth on the gears was lined up, that it would be set. Is there a section for dummies on timing procedure on this type of setup? Again it's a K181. I feel like an a** for asking, but I guess I won't know if I don't, right?
Some pics of the gas leak. I've already put JB weld around the hole where it gets screwed into the tank. That doesn't leak. I think it's coming from the threads of the nipple.

cubfixer · #8 02-23-2013, 06:33 PM

Have you put a new bowl assembly on it? I'd try that. Brand new ones on fleabay for $15 or so. You don't guess you have a partially plugged nipple to the gas tank , do you? Run a wire up thru the nipple and see. Sometimes a piece of rust or trash can partially block the nipple and block enough gas flow to the carb.

JayJay · #9 02-23-2013, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ricks

w
. . . Now I'm down to thinking the timing might be off.. . . I've never timed this engine before and I'm not quite sure that there's an advance or retard. I always thought that if the marked teeth on the gears was lined up, that it would be set. Is there a section for dummies on timing procedure on this type of setup? Again it's a K181. I feel like an a** for asking, but I guess I won't know if I don't, right? . . .

Check out Matt Gonitzke's web site, he has excellent illustrated instructions for setting the static timing: http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/static_timing.pdf

Jeremiah

darkminion_17 · #10 02-24-2013, 11:01 AM

The tank has to be rotated 180°looks like your fuel line is running uphill.These carbs are gravity fed.
The best way to fix that leak in the nipple is the remove, clean, and resolder it. Don't forget to take out the gas, rinse the tank with soapy water a few times.The repair takes a few minutes but will last longer than the silly putty you used.