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  #1  
Old 01-11-2013, 05:13 AM
jacobd jacobd is offline
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Default Doing a little clutch work.

Recently got a 104 that someone was about half way through turning into a puller. The guy I got it from included a clutch assembly but it needed help so I thought I'd take some pictures to show and tell.


Facing the clutch plates in the lathe. Quite a difference. Probably could've taken off a hair more but I didn't want to cut it too thin.


I think the drive shaft must've been for a wide frame because it was about an inch too long. The trans coupler hole was wallowed out bad and the clutch plate holes were drilled a little too big to start with so I cut the wallowed end off the shaft and drilled new holes in that end. I realize I could've just bought a new 5/8'' rod to use but this tractor's just for kicks and I figured as long as I'm reusing parts already...


The best way I've found to drill a new drive shaft is to use an old one as a template. Just stack them in a vise like so.


After the first hole is drilled I like to drive a spiral pin through them both to keep everything lined up just right.


Now just drill your other holes and voila! perfect drive shaft every time. I left out the creeper hole and you can see the two extra clutch holes off 90 degrees now in the back. This method really helps with a, shall we say, "less then optimal" drilling set up


Next is to assemble all the components. I'm using a shop press but I've also done it in the tractor by propping up the front of the shaft with a jack stand (sans engine of course) locking down the clutch pedal to hold the spring tension back and driving the pins in with a hammer. Actually I think it might be a little easier to do it that way.


Using a C clamp to push the pins in. A hammer works fine to.


That's it! this clutch is ready to go. If I really wanted to do a good job or if I was doing this for someone else I would of course want to use a new clutch disk, springs, drive shaft material, throwout bearing ect but most of my tractors are just for fun so I don't mind just "refreshing" it.
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  #2  
Old 01-11-2013, 06:02 AM
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Yamaguy Yamaguy is offline
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Good job!! I like the tip on drilling the driveshaft.
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  #3  
Old 01-11-2013, 06:33 AM
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Nice work jacobd
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  #4  
Old 01-11-2013, 08:18 AM
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great idea on drilling the shaft.
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  #5  
Old 01-11-2013, 10:53 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamaguy View Post
Good job!! I like the tip on drilling the driveshaft.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
great idea on drilling the shaft.
Thanks for that tip!
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2013, 12:31 PM
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Appreciate the tip on drilling. Eric and I will soon be delving into our 102s drive shaft and will put your experience to very good use. Thanks again.
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  #7  
Old 01-11-2013, 12:52 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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I like the tip on drilling.

I use a roll pin ounnch like the ones sears sell:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-pc-...3&blockType=G3

I use a split collar behind the spring istead of drilling a hole. Drilling that hole makes a weak spot in the driveshaft.

You better add a brace behind the part that clutch arm mounts to the tower. The red spring will bend your tower and it is hard on your left leg/knee. A better choice is a blue spring. It is easier to push the clutch in and in my case lets my grandkids be able to drive my 100.
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Old 01-11-2013, 01:15 PM
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Very nice workmanship!
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:48 PM
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Thanks for sharing pics and details! It sounds like many people made good use of your tips and work.

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  #10  
Old 01-12-2013, 04:10 AM
jacobd jacobd is offline
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Thanks for the kind words guys. I agree a roll pin punch is the go to tool for rusty old pins, I really should get a set. According to the po the spring is a stock spring that someone painted red. Why I don't know but it didn't seem too awful stiff so hopefully he's right.
Good luck to everyone with your clutch related projects!
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