Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Specialties R. F. Houtz and Sons Jeff in Pa.

P&K Cub Cadet Machtech Direct

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > Implements and Attachments
Reload this Page Box blade help needed
Register FAQ Calendar

Notices

Reply
Page 1 of 2 1 2
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-06-2013, 07:27 PM
cub149's Avatar
cub149 cub149 is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 636
Default Box blade help needed
I'm getting ready to build a box blade for my super. My wheel base is about 43" so I am going to make it 43 or 44" wide, I'm thinking make it as small as possible for more efficiency?
I'm thinking of making it 14" tall, 14" deep (front to back).
The biggest concern is the weight. What would be to heavy? 100lbs? 150lbs? I know weight is what is going to help it work but I guess what I am asking is what would be to heavy?
__________________
Chip T.
Drexel NC
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-07-2013, 08:25 AM
Methos Methos is offline
Banned
  
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 10,941
Default
Quote:
Originally Posted by cub149 View Post
I'm getting ready to build a box blade for my super. My wheel base is about 43" so I am going to make it 43 or 44" wide, I'm thinking make it as small as possible for more efficiency?
I'm thinking of making it 14" tall, 14" deep (front to back).
The biggest concern is the weight. What would be to heavy? 100lbs? 150lbs? I know weight is what is going to help it work but I guess what I am asking is what would be to heavy?
Chip Your cat0 will lift much more then 150 lbs. The heavier it is the better results you'll get. I would bring it out wider then the wheels. Cub used a 40" wide box blade for a 36" wide tire spacing.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-07-2013, 12:13 PM
cub123's Avatar
cub123 cub123 is offline
Grand Member
  
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 1,545
Default
I'm with Duke, I would make it a 48-50 inch. 150-175lbs is where I would try to keep it, proper angle on blade edge should make it more than efficient, if its too heavy and you are going to have trouble picking it up to shake out dirt if it get stuck in it.
__________________
149 with kwik-way loader,1772,two 1782 super smokers, 982 SGT w 54" haban blade,60" haban deck, 50in deck cat 0 3 point, brinly cat 0: blade, plow(3), disc.123,hydro lift. 61"O" Brinly single row planter,brinly cultivator,#2 trailer,brinly 10 inch plow,3 42 inch blades,Model #1 Tiller with extenstions,haban sickle mo. 106w/ags and hydro lift.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-07-2013, 03:22 PM
cub149's Avatar
cub149 cub149 is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 636
Default
Thanks, I'll shoot for 150 -175 and make it 48".
__________________
Chip T.
Drexel NC
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-07-2013, 05:59 PM
drglinski's Avatar
drglinski drglinski is offline
Grand Member
  
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,939
Default
I agree about making it wide; I know if I made it narrower than the wheelbase I would be annoyed. On the second pass I'd have to overlap and that would annoy me. I'd rather have it wider. Like those narrow bucket front loaders on the farmall letter series? Drive me nuts.
__________________
Daniel G.




.

(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-08-2013, 01:32 AM
ajcombs's Avatar
ajcombs ajcombs is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: May 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 727
Default
Just a though most doors gates and stuff are 3 or 4 feet obviously 3 feet isnt an option to worry over but if you have a place you might travel thats 4 ft might be tight but 47 inches would make it possible. Got a building to clean the manure out of with a 4 ft opening is why it come to my miñd. Good luck and take some pics!
__________________
1782 smoker!!, 169 and parts 128
And a bunch of stuff that fits on the back of them LOL
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-09-2013, 09:48 PM
cub149's Avatar
cub149 cub149 is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 636
Default
I got started today. Did some horse trading on some steel sheeting.
My question is how far below the bottom should the cutting edge be? 1/2", 1" ? What angle should it be set at? I welded a piece of angle to the bottom to bolt the cutting edge to so now I need to make a cutting edge and fit it before welding on the sides.
__________________
Chip T.
Drexel NC
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-10-2013, 01:26 PM
Methos Methos is offline
Banned
  
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 10,941
Default
Quote:
Originally Posted by cub149 View Post
I got started today. Did some horse trading on some steel sheeting.
My question is how far below the bottom should the cutting edge be? 1/2", 1" ? What angle should it be set at? I welded a piece of angle to the bottom to bolt the cutting edge to so now I need to make a cutting edge and fit it before welding on the sides.
The cutting edge should be adjustable and I wouldn't got more then 1/2 slot.

Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-11-2013, 10:45 PM
fourinchdragslicks fourinchdragslicks is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Missouri
Posts: 197
Default
Following. Pics of your cutting edge attachemnt angle orientation would be great
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-13-2013, 03:42 PM
cub149's Avatar
cub149 cub149 is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 636
Default
OK, this is where I'm at right now. The height is 14". The total side length is 18", with 2 or 3" on the backside and that would leave about 15 or 16" depth in the box. I haven't welded it up so I have time to change my mind. The width is 46", that was the largest piece of steel I could find ( I did some horse trading, two used tires and $10 for a piece of 38 x 46 x 3/8" diamond plate, ) I am having doubts on the weight though. I have figured everything and it looks like it's going to weigh in around 180-200 lbs. Oh well, if it's to much for the cub I can sell it.
I am going to make a cutting edge out of 3/8 flat stock. I will set it at 20 degrees and use welds in place of bolts to hold it in place, I can always cut a weld to lower it. My choice for cutting blades comes down to $$$, a 48" cutting blade is running $60 a piece and i need two. This is a low budget project plus I seriously doubt I will wear out a piece of 3/8 with what I will be doing with it.
Here are some pics, more to come as I progress. I ran out of oxygen and acetylene so can't finish cuts until I get a refill.







__________________
Chip T.
Drexel NC
Reply With Quote
Reply
Page 1 of 2 1 2

« Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:07 AM.

www.onlycubcadets.net - Archive - Top

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.