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#1
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I rebuilt the engine in the 149, K341.
It runs ok for a while, then like the timing changes, it misses pop, sputters, but will run nearly ok when I throttle it down to an idle. In fact it runs so rough and shakes so I was afraid it might come apart. I changed the condenser, made no difference. My small engine parts guy says the voltage on the points should be 8.4 to 8.5 volts. Mine is 12 volts, same as the battery. I put a resister in line with the voltage lead and fried the resistor. I am thinking the points are getting so hot they fluttering and the points arm may be flexing under the high voltage. Would this be right to assume?? Any ideas guys? I need some help. Is the 8.4 to 8.5 volts the correct voltage for the points? Thanks Dave |
#2
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You should have upwards 13.7VDC at the Ignition Coil. IF....you have the correct Kohler Ignition coil, then no resistor is needed.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#3
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I bought the Kohler coil, suppose to be the correct one, I don't remember what it cost exactly, but I thought at the time it was pricey.
If I did not have the correct coil, what is the purpose of the resisitor other than drop the voltage? |
#4
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#5
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I pulled this 12volt coil off this morning, it has NO part number on it nor the mounting strap. I don't think that would be normal for a Kohler part, but thats what I paid for. Looks to me like a generic coil....It is 6 inches long from very top to bottom. That looks longer than what is in the picture you sent me.
| BUT, when I shook it there is liquid in it. I don't remember ever hearing that in a coil before. Has it got water in it or did it come that way. The Cadet has been covered anytime it has been outside without exception. Dave |
#6
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My Kohler coils have no identifying marks either but they did come in Kohler boxes lol.. One has died after6 months of use so my next one may be the Bosch. Have no idea for your problem but thought I confirm your coil might not say it was a Kohler.
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1782 smoker!!, 169 and parts 128 And a bunch of stuff that fits on the back of them LOL |
#7
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Dave R, the coil has oil in it , also has internal resistor, Chris
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1968 104 , service replacement '96 K301, 42" deck 1997 Scotts 42502X8 , repowered with '96 B&S 18hp TwinII , 42" deck 2007 LA130,21hp Intek v-twin, 48" deck ![]() ![]() |
#8
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Dave R: You should be able to tell if the coil has a resistor in it by checking the primary side with an ohm meter. I'm not sure what the values are, but I would think that the coil with the resistor would read something between 4-7 ohms; where you would have next to nothing on a coil without an internal resistor. I've got a 149 with its original coil installed, I'll check the value with an ohm meter and post the results.
I'm concerned, though, that the coil may not be your issue. The fact that it runs better at an RPM where less fuel volume is required makes me suspicious (although a marginal coil could present the same symptoms.) Have you made sure that the carb is getting fuel under all operating conditions? Do you have a filter installed in-line from the tank, if so, could it be partially blocked? Is the filter designed for gravity fed, not pump fed, systems? How clean is the inside of your tank, have you cleaned it with muriatic acid? If you remove the fuel line at the carb, you should see a clear stream of gas. Finally, are you confident in your carb's float level adjustment? General rule-of-thumb is to adjust the float so that it is level with the top of the carb when you hold the top of the carb upside-down. On the 149, you also need to adjust the stop so that the float doesn't bottom out on the bowl and hang up the inlet valve (Been There, Done That). If your float is missing the stop, as mine was, order a new one, replacement has been redesigned and is much more rugged. I do think your problem is either spark or fuel related, and attention to detail will likely resolve the problem. Edit: By-the-way, your engine should be a 321 14 HP; the 341 is a 16 HP found in the relatively rare Model 169. (I think the Kohler numbering scheme is based on the bore diameter in millimeters, not HP.) |
#9
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Kohler system designated approximate cubic inches. Not diameter of piston bore.
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#10
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1st 2 numbers,approx. cu inch , last number = single cylinder
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1968 104 , service replacement '96 K301, 42" deck 1997 Scotts 42502X8 , repowered with '96 B&S 18hp TwinII , 42" deck 2007 LA130,21hp Intek v-twin, 48" deck ![]() ![]() |
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