Attaching blade to 100

[Mountain Heritage]

I guess now is as good of time as ever to get the blade onto the 100. After all, I need to move some topsoil & crushed stone this week. Nothing like waiting until the last minute!

Just curious what, if at all, am I missing here? Going by the manual it says for 70 & 100 models "without mower mounting backet" botl the extension braces to the subframe as show in "B" illistration 4. Place the subframe on the foot rest...... I don't have any "extention braces". So do I need these for sure so it will lift and lower properly? I did notice the sub frame would hit the tie rod that goes between the two wheels. So I mounted it on the top side instead of the bottom side. What size bolts/pins are you guys using to mount these or do I use a rod that runs the entire width of the tractor to pin both sides of the sub frame to the tractor frame? Also, what is the "spacing" between the sub frame tabs where it touches the tractor frame? If I place the one side tight to the tractor frame there is about 1/2" of space. This needed to let the blade flex and give a little when pushing?

I still have to fabricate my lift arm bracket. Thought I'd put a chain or cable on it first to make sure I don't need anything else.

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[Jeff in Pa]

Your 100 attaches the same as my 122



You'll need a lift bracket


Two ways to attach,
1/2-13NC bolt from the INSIDE facing out ( it's easier to put the washer and nut on this way--a long screwdriver can be used to keep the bolt head from turning )


Or using the handy brackets which slip in the hole and bolt in using a 1/2-13NC bolt to the factory welded nut in the frame

[darkminion_17]

Looks like you need the extensions or install the mule drive bracket.there is a difference in the length of the undercarridge.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Looks like you need the extensions or install the mule drive bracket.there is a difference in the length of the undercarridge.

[Mountain Heritage]

So your saying I need the extensions even after I have moved the tie rod to the top side to allow the blade to reach the bolt holes? How much clearance is needed between the tie rod and the sub frame? I like the fancy little bracket with the bolt and pin...but think I might just run with the single bolt for now until I know its all going to work right. I will have to measure the sub frame like you have in your picture when I go home. Will see what I have in comparison to yours.

[mmzullo]

I use a rod through the front of the tractor to mount the subframe but using 2 bolts is definitely stronger.

[Mountain Heritage]

Anyone ever used cable instead of the lift arm? Just curious if the solid rod for the lift arm is better in keeping the blade down instead of letting it "float" over the ground?

[R Bedell]

Mike:

This maybe of help to you........ 42" Blade Manual

[darkminion_17]

Good show Roland...That will help.

Mike.

The Tie rod should be the other way with the nuts on top.
The difference in the QA ears and bolt on sub frames ears are 2''The third has been modified to use no extensions.The length from the rockshaft to where the plow frame attaches is what Jeff posted 31 3/8"

Which style do you have?

[Cub Cadet 123]

Originally Posted by Mountain Heritage

Anyone ever used cable instead of the lift arm? Just curious if the solid rod for the lift arm is better in keeping the blade down instead of letting it "float" over the ground?

I've used the cable before--750# or 850# test is what I used along with U-bolt fasteners (2 of them) to lock the cable together. It allows a lot more flexibility in adjustment and certainly works well. I recommended this to mrcubcadet and he likes the results as well. You should be able to pick it up from your local tractor supply store or hardware store for about $3-$4.

Cub Cadet 123