Running a WF without ammeter

[AMCJavelin74]

I need my 128 and its plow for a landscaping project (they come with getting a wife...) and I've been thrashing to get it together and functional.

Well, I can't find the original ammeter stuck near "the first line +" which I assume to be 5 amps chargine... it'd read slightly higher when running so that's good.

So, do I just tie the wires together for the time being? Do I leave them loose? Am I SOL until I get an ammeter?

Thanks,
Matt

[IACubCadet]

I'm kind of confused...you have the gauge...but the needle is not centering?

IMO its not a big deal right now...leave it in there until you get time to replace it. Better like that then bare wires that are electrically hot flopping around.

[save_old_iron]

For the purpose of troubleshooting, an ammeter can be considered the equivalent of a short piece of wire capable of carrying in excess of 20 amps DC current.

Take one apart and you see this









a closer straight on view (unfortunately, this one has the pointer broken off)








two brass studs seen above are the terminal studs on the back of the gauge - current flows thru the center portion of the gauge and sets up a magnetic field in proportion (and direction) to the current flow

If you consider the ammeter pointer the equivalent of a compass needle, the magnetic field set up by the current thru the gauge deflects the "compass" needle and indicates amperage flow. Roughly speaking, this action is outlined below. Be it an SG based regulator or a solid state regulator (the ammeter doesn't care), the concept is the same.







For your issue, either leave the ammeter in place as is, or temporarily place both wires on the ammeter on one terminal of the gauge - effectively removing the gauge from the charging circuit until you can secure a replacement.

[flood]

I love to learn new things about my CC. Your explanation (with photos and diagrams) was the best. Thanks

[save_old_iron]

You are welcome sir. It's always fun to take things apart to see what makes 'em tick and learn WHY instead of WHAT went wrong.

I have seen a few ammeters lately that settled in at different readings than 0 when the engine was turned off. Apparently, the pointer pivot gets corroded and the action of the pivot for the pointer becomes a little stiff.

Even some new ones I purchased where offset a little from true 0.

[AMCJavelin74]

well, I lost the ammeter... while I was going through the wiring on it over the wintertime. Judging by the GREAT pics and explanation above I'll connect the wires with a nut and go at it with some electrical tape for temporary use. Just need to move around a big pile of dirt.

I have a 128 and on my 1/4 acre, it sits in the shed. A lot. So I may as well put it to work when I have a chance.

[save_old_iron]

That should work as a temporary measure.

If the ammeter was still present, just could bring the two wires together on the same terminal to completely bypass a bad ammeter.

[AMCJavelin74]

Originally Posted by save_old_iron

That should work as a temporary measure.

If the ammeter was still present, just could bring the two wires together on the same terminal to completely bypass a bad ammeter.

That's the confirmation I was looking for. Great graphics as well... much better than the MS-paint scrawling I do. Is there a better drawing program out there that I haven't heard of yet? I'm only 26 and already feel left behind.

[save_old_iron]

Originally Posted by AMCJavelin74

Is there a better drawing program out there

Not to get too far off topic, but look into Paint.Net and its plugins and effects.
I'd be happy to get you started with some plugins that will give you a firm footing in use of the program.

I'm a big believer in a picture is worth a thousand words.

Chuck