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#1
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I had problems last year with the flat bar on this surging in and out, well it was more like hammering in and out. I put a new belt on it (from the dealer), greased and looked everthing over well and couldn't see any thing wrong. I was no fun mowing with the way it surged and the hammering noise. It has the slot in the front where the flat bar is beat up pretty bad. I would like some other opinions about this before puting it back on.
Some questions. 1. How much play should the two pulley's have. 2. The flat steel that the pulley's are bolted to are bent, but they look factory bent? 2. Should the steel rod move back and forth. It has cotter pins on the outside. Any help is appriciated, thanks |
#2
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You should build new bars for the pulleys.
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Donovan: 62' Original-fenders 63' 100R-K-321a,lights,creeper,electric lift 149-original paint, tiller, three point, duals, ags 1811Custom -M18-18hp kohler magnum, power steering and hydraulic lift with Three point and sleeve hitch. ---------------------------------------------------- Attachments:three-QA 42inch,42inch blade,one-38inch cast end, QA 44inch deck Brinly 12inch plow, 2x cultivators and x2disc Brinly Tool bar cub10: ![]() |
#3
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Is your deck a 44 or 50A model? If so the pulleys have to be angled that way so the belt can match up the offset deck pulley. There really shouldn't be a reason for the tension bar to be hammering like you are describing. Are the mule drive pulleys in good shape? Smooth rolling? Is the 1/2" bar that holds the spring and pulley brackets worn or bent? I like to put a new bar in place of an old one anytime I get a new mule drive.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#4
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It's a 44"
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#5
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Ok, I have a piece of 1/2" rod. Its good tool steel, not just cold rolled. Is the rod 1/2" straight all the way. Whats the trick to getting that spring back into place? It looks like the old one may have a bend to it and is worn where the spring rides on it.
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#6
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Yes the rod is straight all the way thru. It's actually not too hard with the spring. You will notice there is one or maybe two cotter pins holding the pulleys in position. I would start with the one that uses the wrench to tighten it and just slowly progress from there. It's all pretty self explanatory when you get into it. I've done three of them in the last couple of years and not had any problems putting them back together.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#7
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As mentioned, the spring is not all that difficult to reinstall. It actually only has less than 90 degrees of wrap/tension on it when bottomed out on the front plate. (At least mine did.)
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Cub Cadet 129 48" deck - grass mowing 38" deck - backup deck 42" front blade |
#8
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If your pulley's(4) are damaged as in wide/narrow spots from hits or squeezed together it will cause your spring loaded idler to rattle/hammer in an annoying fashion.
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#9
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Thanks everyone
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#10
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Took the rod out today and it has grooves wore in it where the stuff was riding on it. The two holes that it goes thru on each side of the mule drive itself are egg shaped. Whats the fix for this, just leave it alone, weld heavy washers over the holes, or weld plates over them and redrill? The holes on the brackets that rod runs thru that the pulleys are mounted on are the same way.
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