1450 front wheel bearings? X 2

nutzboutoldies · #1 02-20-2012, 09:31 PM

Two questions;
1) The PO had run the wheel bearings beyond any respectful treatment.

Enough said about that. On one of the wheels the new inner bearing fits loose (maybe a .001 or so). Doesn't seem to be much, but very noticeable. Anyone have a trick to "take up the slack" or am I looking at finding a replacement wheel?
2) I thought I read a post some where that when installing new bearings to use a bearing that didn't have an inner seal or remove it and pack the wheel or bearing with grease. Yalls thoughts on how to keep the bearings alive?

dieseldan123 · #2 02-20-2012, 09:57 PM

Ive always packed my bearings. It sounds like your wheel is practically shot if the bearing is loose sitting in the wheel. You could try McMaster Carr and see if they have a bearing that will work, if not time to put in a want ad. Hope this helps!

Oak · #3 02-20-2012, 11:03 PM

Can you use a hammer and tap the flange in a little on the rim? Replace those greaseable bearings with sealed ones and never do anything to them again. 3/4" are RF12-22-14-PP AND THE 1" ARE RF16-32-16-PP. These are very well made bearings.

R Bedell · #4 02-21-2012, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Anyone have a trick to "take up the slack"

I have taken a hammer and chisel, and slightly dimpled the flange of the wheel. I did a triangular pattern ( with reference to a clock, at the 12, 4 & 8 positions, facing the flange). The bearing on mine now fits tight.

I use these sealed bearings instead of them OEM open type.

PaulS · #5 02-21-2012, 09:37 AM

In my experience with wheel bearings if they are to the point of a loose fit the wheel itself is wearing out or already worn out. Wear seems to accelerate with the use of equipment hung on the front of the tractor such as FELs or snowblowers. Keep the wheel bearings well lubricated so at least that will not be a cause of failure. Repairs to the wheel where the bearing sits in my opinion is a temp fix and can get you along for a little while but will not be a lasting fix as the wheel has been worn thinner around the bearing and will sooner or later crack there and then it is time for a new wheel.

CADplans · #6 02-21-2012, 10:39 AM

There are 40+ year old machines with over a thousand hours that have perfect i.d. wheel hub dimensions.

That said, there must be (or previously been) an overload that enlarged the wheel hub.

The wheel can probably be fixed, but, replacements are so cheap, replacement sounds like a better alternative.

I wonder of there is a tubing tool that works opposite of a tubing expander that could "crush" the hub back to shape??

The cold working of the steel by mechanically reducing the hub bore would actually strengthen the hub.

We could discuss the reduction of the size of the grain structure of the steel hub as well as adding impurities at the grain interfaces to insure there are no future failures......................

.......... ..

wj-ihc · #7 02-21-2012, 01:19 PM

If the bearing isn't sloppy in the bore, you can try some loctite products to secure it. 660 or 609 retaining compound is a very good product for bearings fits that are slightly off. It is good for up to about .015" clearance.

nutzboutoldies · #8 02-21-2012, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wj-ihc

If the bearing isn't sloppy in the bore, you can try some loctite products to secure it. 660 or 609 retaining compound is a very good product for bearings fits that are slightly off. It is good for up to about .015" clearance.

Thanks to all for your recommendations. I think I'm in the market for a replacement wheel. However, in the meantime, I will try a patch an look into the loctite product.

Jeff in Pa · #9 02-21-2012, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nutzboutoldies

Thanks to all for your recommendations. I think I'm in the market for a replacement wheel. However, in the meantime, I will try a patch an look into the loctite product.

If it truly loose by .001, just take a center punch and make a few small "strawberries" with the center punch. That will hold the bearing in place.

inspectorudy · #10 04-09-2012, 11:45 AM

I have a little too much slop in the front wheels on my 1811 and would like to replace the four front wheel bearings. The CC parts info says that I need four 741-3002's or the new number 941-3002. How would I tell someone like McMasters what bearing I would need? Or is there a chart that matches CC numbers with other manufacturer's numbers? Are all four bearings the same?