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#1
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I have too much negative camber on my model 149. Any way to adjust it other than a length of pipe on the spindle and lift?
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#2
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That's about the only way.
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#3
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Got a picture? I think it would be pretty hard to bend the spindles so bad as to create negative camber on any WF model (without breaking the axle, too), as the spindles are pretty strong in that respect compared to the NF models. If they are bent and you need to bend them back, heat the part you are bending with an oxyacetylene torch to make it easier to bend.
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#4
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I'll try and post some pictures tomorrow.
I question heating the steel to bend, won't I loose some of the strength? Was hoping to use leverage and do it cold. My guess is I only need to bend them an 1/8" or less at the ends to get the camber correct. Problem will be getting them both correct. |
#5
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You will not (edit: noticeably) lose strength, as the steel is not heat treated. They're probably bent cold in a giant press at the factory, so there would some work hardening that you'd remove by heating it, but I would not worry about it. If the PO was bending spindles, he was doing something he shouldn't have been.
Something isn't quite making sense here...there is a lot of positive camber in the spindles. If you have negative camber and you only bend them 1/8" the other way, I don't think you'll even approach the original amount of positive camber. Just to make sure you don't have positive and negative camber backwards, negative camber means that the distance between the wheels measured at the top is less than the distance between the wheels at the bottom. Is this what you are experiencing? |
#6
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Do not heat the part with a torch. All steel (hot rolled or cold rolled) that is used to make parts such as this is "cold worked" during rolling process. That raises the strength.
Forming and shearing during manufacturing further strengthens the part. ANY heat that will ease the bending will reduce the strength. The final rolls of steel is done at a low enough temperature to raise the strength. Even if the steel has an oxide layer on it. |
#7
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No picture but I think I have it backwards. Bottom of wheels are closer so I guess positive camber. How do I measure to see if I'm in tolerance? Tires are old and worn on the outside. Don't want to replace and have them wear out prematurely
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#8
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ok not familiar with a 149,
but wondering if the axle got put in upside down? that would give a lot of Negative camber. or the if the camber is in the spindles, if they were swapped/flipped? Might check out these possibilities before resorting to drastic modification. You might post some pictures so we can better figure out the problem |
#9
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![]() ![]() Get us some pictures, it won't be hard to tell if somethings really off. ![]()
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149 with kwik-way loader,1772,two 1782 super smokers, 982 SGT w 54" haban blade,60" haban deck, 50in deck cat 0 3 point, brinly cat 0: blade, plow(3), disc.123,hydro lift. 61"O" Brinly single row planter,brinly cultivator,#2 trailer,brinly 10 inch plow,3 42 inch blades,Model #1 Tiller with extenstions,haban sickle mo. 106w/ags and hydro lift. ![]() |
#10
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The wide frames all seem to have a lot of positive camber to make for quick easy steering. My 128 front tires, (originals) were completely wore down on the outside and the insides still looked almost new. Not bad for 40 year old tires. Pics will definitely help a lot.
__________________
DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
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