Cub Cadet 1572 Diesel

d_day2613 · #1 08-13-2009, 07:13 AM

I just bought a Cub Cadet 1572 diesel. The rag joints at the engine coupling were broken. Upon tearing it all apart, noticed that the engine coupling was bent and the bearing inside was worn out. Looks to me as though the end of the drive shaft that goes into the engine coupling is also worn down as though the rag joints broke and the guy kept running it and wore the end of the shaft (don't know for sure, perhaps it is supposed to be tapered at the end??). At any rate, when the drive shaft came loose from the engine, it sheared off the hydro fitting on the front of the deck lift cylinder. Long story short---took the hydro cylinder to the machine shop where they re-tapped and installed another fitting, straightened out the engine coupling and then attempted to put it all back together. Everything went fine right up until the point where I tried to put the driveshaft back into the engine coupling. It became very obvious that the "T" section of the driveshaft was going to shear off that cylinder fitting again as soon as I started the engine. Can't figure this out as the driveshaft is straight (no broken motor mounts or anything that would put the driveshaft at an odd angle) the lift cylinder is put in right as it will only go in one way. Is the driveshaft coupling supposed run so close to the lift hydro line and fitting?? I went on e-bay and checked out another super garden tractor lift cylinder, and the fitting on the front of the cylinder looks only millimeters shorter than the I have, which would mean that even when it is all stock, the engine coupling would only be missing this fitting by maybe a half inch at the most. That doesn't leave any room for driveshaft flex under torque. I'm missing something here. This has been kicking my butt for the last couple days and the "professionals" down at the local small engine/mower shop are ABSOLUTELY no help, neither are the people at the Case/International/Cub Cadet dealership. Pretty much their advice is to drop the tractor and a blank check off and they'll see if they can't fix it. I don't work that way. I need some help here from some real Cub Cadet lovers that know what they are talking about and have worked on and owned these super garden tractors. I know you're out there. Also need a line some used parts ie. driveshafts, lift cylinders etc. Thanks in advance guys!!!!

R Bedell · #2 08-13-2009, 07:20 AM

d_day2613:

First, welcome to our Forum.......

I don't have a Cub Diesel, but there are members that do.

Pictures would be most helpful.

papaglide · #3 08-13-2009, 08:16 AM

Hey man, glad you got it!!

Have a little patience, the guys here will come through and help you out!! Keep us informed.

jrarick · #4 08-13-2009, 09:52 AM

I have a 1772 diesel and understand your frustration--the driveline is a real pain to work on and requires a lot of patience and "money". You may want to look at a parts breakdown for the driveshaft on cubs website. As mentioned pictures would help. also the driveshaft is not supposed to be tapered on the end and there is a very close tolerence for things to fit together.

aagitch · #5 08-13-2009, 08:29 PM

You need to replace the driveshaft if the end is worn down. It's possible that the correct fitting on the cylinder is normally that close. The fan on my driveshaft is less than 1/2" from a few things including the hydro lines and hydro filter. If you still have something hitting, then something isn't installed properly or maybe something is bent or cockeyed.

Matt G. · #6 08-13-2009, 09:33 PM

The fittings have to be oriented correctly such that they aren't hit by the driveshaft...the service manual talks about this.

And I hear ya on the diesel driveshaft repair PITA...I've been there 3 times, once with a 1512 and twice with the 782D.

ChrisA · #7 08-14-2009, 06:15 PM

One thing to check is whether the bolts on the ragjoint coupling are facing the right way. I know that on the rear coupling to the hydro it is possible to put the bolts in backwards and then if the nose of the bolt is facing the hydro it will hit the hydraulic lines coming off the hydro, the same may be true of the front coupling.
Also, have you rebolted the engine assembly yet? That whole assembly can move 3" when unbolted from the frame. That might be a cause of interference if the engine is out of line fore and aft.
I have done this twice on my 882D, and it is certainly a PITA. My driveshaft spun in the ragjoint coupling when the roll pin sheared and so I have slop where the driveshaft fits the coupling. I figured the shaft and coupling were worn anyway and would not get any worse, so I just put in a new roll pin and have been running with no problems ever since