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Reload this Page I hear the hydrostatic in neutral
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  #1  
Old 09-15-2011, 04:52 PM
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makabart makabart is offline
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Default I hear the hydrostatic in neutral
I am new to this forum. I got my 1977-78 1650 last year and due to some issues I found this site very helpful. My question is I just replaced the rag joints on the drive shaft by moving the engine forward as explained in a few threads. I have it back together and notice a slight whine which sounds like the hydrostatic even between forward and reverse. I seem to not remember the sound and wonder if I missed something or did something wrong. It seems to work just fine, but it does make me nervous. Any advice would be welcome.
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Old 09-15-2011, 05:00 PM
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_DX3_ _DX3_ is offline
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I would use the service manual and do the hydro lever neutral adjustment. These hydro's are all but bullet proof and whining does happen with some of them.
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1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck

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2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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  #3  
Old 09-15-2011, 06:40 PM
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makabart makabart is offline
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Default Thought I fixed my problem
Thanks for the reply.
The reason I replaced the rag joint was I saw that one was damaged after having problems with the tractor bogging down severely in thicker grass. But having done that, and all seemed well until the tractor warmed up it did it again. This time I thought it was the belt so I took it off to replace. Then when I increase the speed of the engine quickly it still does it almost to the point of killing the engine. Could this be the PTO itself. The 1650 always leaked some oil, and could that be the cause?
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:16 PM
MartyC MartyC is offline
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Just a thought but could the new belt be too tight? Any way, good luck!
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:16 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makabart View Post
Thanks for the reply.
The reason I replaced the rag joint was I saw that one was damaged after having problems with the tractor bogging down severely in thicker grass. But having done that, and all seemed well until the tractor warmed up it did it again. This time I thought it was the belt so I took it off to replace. Then when I increase the speed of the engine quickly it still does it almost to the point of killing the engine. Could this be the PTO itself. The 1650 always leaked some oil, and could that be the cause?
If you are saying the engine is laboring when hot, with no belt or load but just reving it up to operating speed.
I would be looking @ engine cooling as you state it is oily,-- read collecting clippings, chaff etc, in cooling fins.
Also check timing, & carb high speed fuel adjustment.
A 1650 is a power house and should pretty much do all that is asked of it.
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:43 AM
mattkarr mattkarr is offline
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Wonder if you have a bad bearing somewhere. Could be running too lean too. Also check if you have anything wrapped up under the deck like twine or fence wire , been there before.
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Old 09-16-2011, 03:54 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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You need to be more specific about what you mean by 'bogging down'.

Is the engine slowing down? Or is the engine maintaining speed but the deck is slowing down? Or is the engine and deck maintaining speed, but the tractor is slowing down?
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Old 09-17-2011, 08:47 PM
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makabart makabart is offline
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Default She's mowing again.
For now,

Thanks for the info.

Rebuilt the carburetor noticed the gaskets were shot or missing (bottom of bowl) and still had issues. Then went back to the electrical and found the points had opened up. Adjusted it to 20 thousands, and still an issue. Then checked the plug and cleaned it, then I got spark. Next I adjusted carburetor and during the two acres and got it to seem to run fine. A little combination of everything maybe. I am planning to rebuild the engine this winter.

Question: I was told, if I do, I should bore the cylinder.

In retrospect the bogging down was if the ignition was too early or too late.
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:22 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Originally Posted by makabart View Post
For now,

Thanks for the info.

Rebuilt the carburetor noticed the gaskets were shot or missing (bottom of bowl) and still had issues. Then went back to the electrical and found the points had opened up. Adjusted it to 20 thousands, and still an issue. Then checked the plug and cleaned it, then I got spark. Next I adjusted carburetor and during the two acres and got it to seem to run fine. A little combination of everything maybe. I am planning to rebuild the engine this winter.

Question: I was told, if I do, I should bore the cylinder.

In retrospect the bogging down was if the ignition was too early or too late.
I would set the timing with a timing light or Matt's static timing guide. Both ways will get your timing set dead on no questions asked.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4405
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