Brake Pad relining

[Matt G.]

I put an external brake rearend in my 582, and the brake pads were shot. Today, I relined them. It's easy and cheap with some material from McMaster Carr. It's part number 6175K119 which is 3/16" thick by 3" wide. It's currently $6.96/ft. One foot will do one tractor and leave some left over. I bought 3 feet, as several of my tractors have worn brakes.

Step 1: Remove the old lining. There are several styles of external brakes used on the IH and MTD built tractors. This IH rear that I believe was originally in a 126 has holes in the backing metal part of the pads. I knocked out the pad material in the holes. I scraped as much of the old pad off as I could with a razor blade, and then I soaked them in a 50% solution of muriatic acid for 1 hour. The acid helps soften the adhesive so you can scrape the rest off with the razor blade. One pad had a really hard spot that I had to chip off with a chisel.

Step 2: Cut lining

It's easy to cut the brake lining with a utility knife. Each pad needs a piece 1.5" x 4". Four pieces are needed.

Step 3: Prepare the backing plates

After cleaning all the old lining and adhesive, I cleaned the backing plates with mineral spirits, and then applied the adhesive pictured to the lining, and then spread it into a thin layer on the back of the lining. I put plastic from a Wally World bag between the pads so they wouldn't stick together, and then I clamped them very tightly in a vise for an hour.

Step 4: Paint and install

I splattered some cheap primer and black paint on the back of the backing plates to keep them from rusting. I then installed them on the tractor.


Side note: 3/16" material is ever so slightly too thick. It was difficult reinstalling the pads, and I had to drive the tractor a bit to wear the pads a bit so that the wheels would turn easily. They'll loosen up eventually. I haven't installed one side yet as the paint wasn't dry. I may try planing 1/16" off or so to make them fit looser.

[ACecil]

Great job Matt!

[Diz Jr.]

Matt G. ,
Thanks for the instructions on how to do this. It always looks easy when you show us how :biggrin2.gif:-

[papaglide]

Thanks for the instructions Matt!! It doesn't seem too hard when you write it out step by step. Have a great day!!

[RPalmer]

Originally Posted by Diz Jr.

Matt G. ,
Thanks for the instructions on how to do this. It always looks easy when you show us how :biggrin2.gif:-

Ain't that the truth! :biggrin2.gif:

[AyatinGL]

Matt G - Thank for this post - much appreciated. I'd like to reline my brakes using your method. But, since I don't have a planer, do you have another suggestion of how to remove the excessive 1/16"? Would a handheld power sander work?

[gsomersjr]

Just don't breathe in the dust. The original brake material likely has asbestos in it. Once you breathe it in it's there forever.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by AyatinGL

Matt G - Thank for this post - much appreciated. I'd like to reline my brakes using your method. But, since I don't have a planer, do you have another suggestion of how to remove the excessive 1/16"? Would a handheld power sander work?

I used a belt sander. As far as removing the old pads, I heated the backing plates with my acetylene torch till they were red hot and the old pads just fell off. Clean them up and used JB weld to glue the new pads on. Make sure you clamp them good till the glue dry's then hit them with the belt sander. Use a dust mask while sanding.

[AyatinGL]

gsomersjr - Thanks for the heads up.

Sam Mac - Will a butane torch work just the same? And, did you also order the brake material from McMaster Carr - or did you get it from somewhere else?

[Sam Mac]

Got the pad material from McMaster. Not sure a butane torch will make enough heat.