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#1
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I know this has been discussed before, but I'm not good at looking things up, so could you all help me out once again?
On my 147 before tare down, the hydro was very touchy in the forward movement. In other words, going from neutral to forward it would jump into forward. I'm thinking we have a ware issue. Here's some pictures, the light spring damper is broke, and the heavy spring damper has significant ware on the ends. Also the trunnion is grooved on the corners. Is this the part that needs to be built up with weld and filed down? And would that be causing the jumping into forward, or would it be something differant? I called my Cub dealer, and he has the springs and end caps in stock, I'm thinking replace everything? Thanks
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#2
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Yes, yes and yes, LOL. You should replace both trunion springs and end caps and the last picture that has the wear in the corners is where you will fill in with weld and then hand file it down. If that bracket is still mounted to the transmission, wrap a wet cloth around the lower shaft to help protect the seal from getting too hot. I would just hit a few tack welds at a time and not get it too hot too quick, then would file down some, then refill with weld some more till it was all squared up. I used the bracket in your first picture as my guide for filling in the second bracket. If you lay it over top you will see they are both identical in size and proportion. When they match you are good to go. Don't forget to use some shims on the first bracket when you re install it to make sure it has no movement and is centered over top of the springs.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#3
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I just completed this if you want to see the pics of mine, on page 20 of my 1650 project thread.
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#4
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Thanks DWayne and Dave, but what is meant by using shimes? You mean where the snap ring is? There isn't much room, it is some sloppy, but not alot. Dave, you mentioned about filing down a washer, is that where it goes? Infront or behind?
Thanks
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#5
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Yes where the snap ring is. I ordered some .005 shims from McMaster Carr. I think I had to use 3 on mine. You need to put the shims to where the plate is centered over the springs and not off to one side or the other. Mine worked out good on the snap ring side.
McMaster Carr shim link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims/=de6qe8 Click on stainless steel
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#6
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I just assumed they went on the outside, just under the clip - but now reading Dwayne's post, I'll go back and look at the centering.
There won't be much play, but even a little is problematic from what I read here. BTW, play in the shaft itself moving in and out of the hydro is normal, so don't worry about that. We're talking about the outer plate moving in relation to the inner bracket. That should be snug. Remember, I was only talking about .040", so that is "not a lot." And I didn't file a standard washer, they're way too thick (although, I guess you could...) I started with this 18 gauge washer, or "bushing" as I think it was called at the hardware store. |
#7
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OK, thanks guys.
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#8
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Well I couldn't keep asking my buddy's to weld little piddly things for me anymore, so I bought a small Lincoln welder. It's wire feed but without the gas, and it's a standard plug so I didn't have to install another 220.
Anyway, welded up my first trunnion, (first welding job, period) put in the new parts. And she moves smooth as new. Thanks guys for your help in another fix. Now onto getting the hood to fit, because I redid the dash and don't want another hole worn into the corner. Straiten out the fenders, all bent to heck, put the undercarriage on with the deck, and hopefully be able to try it out in a week or so. Again thanks for helping with the trunnion, oh, and the voltage regulator help. By the way, what is the proper spelling for the trunnion? I've seen it spelled in different ways, both by members and in parts books.
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#9
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Congrats on the trunnion fix. My spell check says it is they way I just spelled it, but I use one N sometimes too, LOL. A man just simply has to have a decent little welder if working on these things. I've got to get one soon myself.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#10
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Great thread and info fellas, I'm watching these threads and collecting the info so I won't ask these same questions all over again in a few months!
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