Clutch question

MOturkE · #1 06-24-2011, 03:39 PM

I noticed the other day that the engine mounting screws were missing on the left side of the 122. I replaced them with class 5 cap screws which matched the originals. Once I got the engine relocated to its proper location (a bit rearward) it has compressed the clutch assy more and now the clutch is engaged with the pedal fully depressed. I haven't serviced the clutch and I wonder if simply replacing the clutch plate and broken teaser spring will be sufficient. This Cub sat in an outbulding for nearly 20 years without any use, so everything on it is what it was born with.
Any comments, pointers, or warnings before I disassemble the clutch?

I noticed Mr. Heller has a complete clutch assy replacement available for $175... Would it be better/cheaper to plan to rebuild it myself?

william1041200 · #2 06-24-2011, 08:25 PM

Engine position couldn't do it. Either the throwout lever needs more pull, or the pilot is deeper in the bushing (in the crank) and now is stuck to the point it is driving the driveshaft. I would recommend pulling the engine out completely, then stand tractor up on rear end. Remove the entire driveline from the rear coupling. Disassemble it clean - the driveshaft will need to have rust removed where the pressure plate and throwout bearing ride- it must be smooth and clean , grease, reassemble adding in the teaser spring, and likely a new throwout bearing. Next time I have my driveshaft out, Im gonna try EZ slide (a graphite lubricant paint) on the driveshaft and bushing. Everything else I try it on is such a success, so why not? Oh yeah! Don't forget to change the bushing in the crankshaft, and polish the end of driveshaft good. It does need grease, but no need to fill the entire cavity.

Donny Curtis · #3 06-24-2011, 08:50 PM

I had a stainless steel drive shaft made for my 102

Matt G. · #4 06-25-2011, 08:30 AM

MOturkE-

If you are going to take the clutch out, do it right. Replace the pilot bushing, driveshaft (highly unlikely the original driveshaft isn't worn or badly corroded, especially if the tractor sat for years) friction disc, teaser spring, throwout bearing, main spring, and the spirol pins. Have the pressure plates trued on a lathe. If you have a drill press you can pretty easily make a new drive shaft out of a piece of cold-rolled steel; he last time I made one I used 4140 chromoly steel because the quality is a LOT better than your typical hardware-store cold-rolled steel. It was only about $10 for enough material for a driveshaft.

Read the service manual before you touch anything, and I'd recommend making a clutch spring compressor to release and recompress the spring.

MOturkE · #5 06-25-2011, 10:05 AM

This is the replacement assy available from one of the sponsors of this site that I'll most likely go with. After doing the math, comparing prices of the basic parts necessary to do a complete rebuild, the price is really exceptional. I don't have a shop or garage to work in so it would be tricky to do the job the way it should be done. I do most of my work using hand tools and basic power tools.

http://ihcubcadetparts.net46.net/1_2_Products.html

Scroll down the page and you'll see the rebuilt assy including a 304 SS shaft. Not including the shaft, the price given here is only about $64 above what I would spend on parts... Plus, most of the work is already done.

While I have the engine out I can get it cleaned up, remove the head and scrape the carbon deposits out, and perform other neglected maint. - per the service manual. It'll also allow me a chance to clean up the frame and deal with some of the corrosion (especially on the fasteners).

Good thing I kept the old 4x4 swingset frame to hoist the engine out under!