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#1
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I am new to this and not sure I am in the right place. I have a 782 that will start and run but not very well. When sitting on the seat the plug on the right side is black, really black all over. I put a spark tester on both plug wires, then connected them to the plugs. It looks like I have a white spark to both plugs. I thought I would have a blue spark. The spark to the right side is harder to see. It looks like the plug wires and coil are all orginial. I have though about replaceing coil, plug wires, points and condenser. Anyone have any suggestions? Oh, I do have new plugs in it. What should the points be set at?
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#2
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Your KT17 has a broken rod.
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782 w/Honda power 129 stock for now... 100 basketcase |
#3
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I agree. Compression test it. (put thumb over spark plug hole and crank)
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Tyler Chiliak. Southeast Alberta Canada. My dad and I own, 1650, , 1450, 1250, 1250, 1200, 982, 782, 149, 149, 149, 128, 128, 123, 100, 100. Also a 1310, 1500, and 2 1600 IHC trucks. |
#4
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I am not disagreeing ,and I am always wanting to learn. But please explain to me how you can tell that an engine has a broken rod from the information the poster has given us.
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Sold everything but one. 1211-snow pusher, cab ,54 inch plow, loaded tires (all 4) Gilson wheel weights, X-trac fronts- soon to have power steering and dual hydraulics |
#5
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If it did have a broken rod would you not hear a massive knock?
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#6
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well my thought is that since its a twin it would continue to run with 1 completely broken rod but only on one cylinder. there would be no knock because the rod is completely broken. im not sure if he has a broken rod, but i agree that a simple finger over the hole test would confirm of deny a broken rod. take spark plug off of other cylinder while doing test test. test at cranking speed more than fast enough.
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#7
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If you confirm the rod isn't broken, replace the points, condenser, and wires. I had a similiar problem on a 782 and it was the coil.
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Adrian 2072 (789513) |
#8
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Is it common for these to break the right rod?
I just replaced the HG and that didn't fix it. I turned over the engine with the head off and the piston didn't move.. ![]() I hope this is an easy fix???? .. |
#9
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That's a typical failure mode, but it doesn't necessarily have to be the right cylinder.
If it's a series I, keep the carb, jugs, heads, and pistons (if they aren't shot), and scrap the rest. If it's a series II, you can rebuild it but you'll need two new rods, main bearings, governor, gaskets, etc at a minimum, assuming the rod didn't take the block, cam, or anything else with it. I have never taken a blown one apart that didn't have block damage. The only way to know is to take it apart and inspect it. |
#10
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Thanks for the reply Matt.
Its a series II. If there is block damage, can I just replace the bad part and use the rest. I see the block is two pieces. I also have a window'd series I. Would that block work or anyof the parts? I have looked and there are no cheap series II's for sale to replace it. ![]() .. |
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