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#1
07-25-2018, 11:41 AM
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Hydro cork gasket leaking?
I'd like to try and pin down where my trans leak is. I have the tunnel cover off and plan to clean up as much of the trans as possible in the hopes of maybe narrowing down where the leak starts. From doing some forum research, it appears that leaks are often at the cork gasket. In the manual, the only gasket shown (#26 section 2-38) is the one that goes right against the pump housing. Assuming this is the one? Then, next question is whether or not - if there is a leak there - can the job of replacing it with a new gasket be done without splitting the tractor? Not sure this is one of those jobs that I can do without a fairly detailed diagram and instructions, but thought I'd at least investigate it. There are a good number of bolts around that trans housing, but assuming not all of them would need to be removed? Leak has been going on for the past 20 years. I just keep a tray under the trans but if I'm going to keep the Cub I'd really like to get rid of the leak. With any luck, perhaps a few of the bolts I'm seeing are just a bit loose and thus the source of the leak.
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#2
07-25-2018, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
IF...you are experienced and have all the right tools, you are looking about about a 4 hr job. If not, figure a whole day.
__________________
[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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#3
07-25-2018, 12:35 PM
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Well, I don't have the means to split the tractor based on what I read in the manual, so I guess that shoots the idea of fixing the transmission leak. Guess the pan stays under it...
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#5
07-25-2018, 01:17 PM
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Of course I have those items, but the pics in the manual show using jacks to support the frame. Undoubtedly better, I'd wager, than building some sort of potentially collapsible tower comprised of randomly-sized wood pieces. Doesn't the support on both sides have to be the same distance from the floor? IF that gasket is even leaking (probably likely), couldn't the job be done if just the frame were taken off - without also then disconnecting everything that needs to be done to split the tractor?
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#6
07-25-2018, 01:39 PM
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In order to get to this gasket, (A) You have to pull the Rear End out from the Frame, and then (B) split the Hydro unit from the Rear End.
__________________
[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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#7
07-25-2018, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
NEVER! EVER! Trust jacks to support the load long term. Jack it.. Block it. A jack can and will fail before a wood block will.
__________________
Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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