Hydro cork gasket leaking?
 

I'd like to try and pin down where my trans leak is. I have the tunnel cover off and plan to clean up as much of the trans as possible in the hopes of maybe narrowing down where the leak starts. From doing some forum research, it appears that leaks are often at the cork gasket. In the manual, the only gasket shown (#26 section 2-38) is the one that goes right against the pump housing. Assuming this is the one? Then, next question is whether or not - if there is a leak there - can the job of replacing it with a new gasket be done without splitting the tractor? Not sure this is one of those jobs that I can do without a fairly detailed diagram and instructions, but thought I'd at least investigate it. There are a good number of bolts around that trans housing, but assuming not all of them would need to be removed? Leak has been going on for the past 20 years. I just keep a tray under the trans but if I'm going to keep the Cub I'd really like to get rid of the leak. With any luck, perhaps a few of the bolts I'm seeing are just a bit loose and thus the source of the leak.

No.....

IF...you are experienced and have all the right tools, you are looking about about a 4 hr job. If not, figure a whole day.

Well, I don't have the means to split the tractor based on what I read in the manual, so I guess that shoots the idea of fixing the transmission leak. Guess the pan stays under it...

You don't own a 9/16" wrench and some wood blocks? That's all you need to split it.

Of course I have those items, but the pics in the manual show using jacks to support the frame. Undoubtedly better, I'd wager, than building some sort of potentially collapsible tower comprised of randomly-sized wood pieces. Doesn't the support on both sides have to be the same distance from the floor? IF that gasket is even leaking (probably likely), couldn't the job be done if just the frame were taken off - without also then disconnecting everything that needs to be done to split the tractor?

In order to get to this gasket, (A) You have to pull the Rear End out from the Frame, and then (B) split the Hydro unit from the Rear End.

Thanks Roland...that's actually what I suspected, but wanted to make certain in the event that there would be some easier way to get at it. With the type of jacks shown in the manual I might be inclined to attempt it, otherwise I don't think so. For now, at least, I'll go with taking off the fenders and cleaning everything up as best I can. With any luck maybe I can then determine where the hytran starts to show up. I've been told no harm is done to the trans by the leak itself assuming the fluid level is kept up. I just worry about the leak getting worse, which is probably likely. Really should be located and fixed.

One twist of the wrench at a time. One bolt at a time. Be done in no time! :beerchug:

Steve....true enough, and applicable to pretty much any task. Of course, it presupposes that one already knows where the 'twist of the wrench' has to take place!!!

Expose as much of the tranny and rearend as practical. Fenders off would be good.

Then spray it down with Gunk engine degreaser (not the foaming version) then powerwash it or garden hose wash it.

Push it inside and let it dry a couple of days. Then sprinkle corn starch or body powder on the likely suspect areas of leaks.

Start it up and run it around a few minutes and look for leaks. The powder will help the leak show up to the eye better.

Once found wash it again.