New 1450 Owner Few Questions?

[lindstromjd]

Originally Posted by MidwestMechanic

Depending on when I was a Carroll wrestler also.

It's been 13 years since I graduated. Featherweight classes (sub 125).

[moingonaman]

Originally Posted by MidwestMechanic

Nice I was originally from Carroll

On topic: I have had a 1450 for nearly 20 years and it has been my primary lawn mower all of those years. It needs a little rest break and some TLC, but it is a worker. I expect that your good work will result in a strong performer for years to come.

Off topic: I don't get to Carroll too often, even though it is only 40 miles away. It is one of my favorite Iowa towns, lots to offer for its size. Maybe one to many stop lights on the main drag but a real nice community nonetheless!

[MidwestMechanic]

Does anyone know where I can buy the brace that runs across the frame and the steering box mounts to? This morning I thought I would try and give this thing a good degrease and all I did was wash away stuff that was hiding problems. I took off the center driveshaft cover found that my cooling fan was broken and I could use some new rag joints on both front and back of the machine. biggest thing I looked into more is that the bolts from the left side of the engine/cradle is gone that is why it leans so bad. So I need to find the best way to pull the motor and I decided I am going to do the cradle mod if I have some good scrap laying around.

The center brace that the steering gearbox bolts do is cracked in a few locations and it flexes pretty good when I crank on the steering wheel. I would like to replace this and get the steering gearbox solid again. the previous owner used a muffler clamp and tried to clamp it back to working order I will attach some pictures. I am going to see if I can get the engine unbolted and out tomorrow we will see how strong my back feels.

I feel like there is a good number of places on this frame that is cracked has anyone else noticed this on other QL tractors ?

any advise on easiest way to remove the engine also?

[MidwestMechanic]

Well I went out and got the engine pulled first thing this morning. The left side engine mount is a little chewed up due to the bolts coming out. but I do not think it is bad enough to try and weld and repair the low spots so I am just going to do the cradle modification and call it a day. I see that the engine has leaks all over the place I will clean it up and keep and eye on the leaks and see where they all come from.

Biggest thing is my steering column does the lower "gearbox" on these systems float on the steering main shaft? because I can wiggle it a tiny bit and would like to get this tightened up while I am here. I think I am going to run the welder over the cracks on the cross member that it bolts to. and maybe do a tiny bit of reinforcement I did see that the frame has about 5-6 cracks threwout it so I wonder how hard this thing has been abused or if its getting to the point where I just need to say screw it and remove everything, blast and weld/repair then paint.

I did also find that my front axle is pretty loose so I need to search on how to tighten it up. I took some pictures of everything also. will add them shortly

[MidwestMechanic]

I got the cradle mod finished yesterday, Yes I know its painted black but its the only color I had at the moment. One of the bolt holes in the oil pan was not in the best of shape but I did clean and run some loctite on the bolts as I put together, tomorrow if weather holds out I plan on welding the frame back up also need to find a good puller to remove the steering wheel so I can repair the steering column

since I am doing all of this I wonder what it would take to repair the slop in the front axle

[twoton]

Quote: "...need to find a good puller to remove the steering wheel ..."

MidwestMechanic, check out post #36 in my thread, '1650'

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...9&postcount=36

[sawdustdad]

I the 9 cubs that I've restored, I've only had one with a frame/weld crack and that was my 1650 where the steering gear box cross member is welded to the frame on the left side. I'd just hit any cracks with a bead and call it a day. I don't know how anybody could actually crack a frame member.

Any worn engine mounting holes in an aluminum oil pan should be heli-coiled. You can get a kit at the auto parts store or on line. If you don't, they are likely to fail again.

The steering box has two bolts that hold it to the cross member. The can work loose. It should not "float."

The front axle is loose for two reasons--the frame channel has spread out a little (a 3/4 inch bolt and a nut can compress it back to it's original size) and the pin that that holds the axle at the central pivot point is worn. It can be replaced. You could also use some shims to take up the slop in the channel if you want.

Nice job so far.

[MidwestMechanic]

Thank you for the info that's why I was wondering how common the frame cracking is because if it was real common I would get some steel and reinforce those areas but I think just doing some grinding and putting a bead in those areas will be best I do not know if the crossmember that the steering box bolts to is very solid I may have to cut that out and have a new one made

I think I will Paul the front axle and see if I can tighten it up I saw that they make a standard pin along with a oversized pin does anyone know what the size of the oversized pin isbecause I do not know if the bushings on the frame or the axle itself is oversized by chance

[MidwestMechanic]

Originally Posted by twoton

Quote: "...need to find a good puller to remove the steering wheel ..."

MidwestMechanic, check out post #36 in my thread, '1650'

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...9&postcount=36

I ended up using a bearing splitter and a harmonic balancer puller I had and it did not want to go at all then suddenly POP wheel came off then the gearbox hit the floor and the tube stayed in place so then I got the tube removed pulled the gearbox apart and I am going to clean everything up tomorrow when I can use parts washer get a new gasket for the gearbox just clean and re assemble along with fixing the tube sliding in and out of the gearbox. I called it quits early today so I did not get the frame cracking repaired

[twoton]

Originally Posted by MidwestMechanic

I ended up using a bearing splitter and a harmonic balancer puller .....

Glad to hear that worked for you.