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#31
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Labrati and all others interested: Please let me give you a big clue!
The WD in WD-40 stands for Water Dispersant!! And it does do that. It is NOT a lubricant!!! Nor is it a Penetrant!! Along with the collection, with "just a few" mechanical PTO's, I am also an antique clock collector and repairer. Let me tell you that if you put WD 40 in clocks, locks, guns or sewing machines where the carrier material (which people think is a lubricant) gets between close fitting metal parts, it will dry up and become concrete. I have made many a dollar chemically cleaning that crap out of spring wound clocks because some ignorant owner sprayed WD-40 in it and couldn't understand why his clock refused to run any longer. You leave that bearing on that shaft with WD-40 residue on there for a about 10 years or so, you may need a cutting torch to get it off. PB blaster is a good brand of penetrant which works! By using Anti-sieze compound (I get mine at NAPA) any place there is metal to metal contact will ensure it will come off the next time you need to remove the item. This is especialy true with the PTO Set Screw and the Bearing surfaces (both inner and outer!) of the PTO. I recommend that you have a machinist drill and tap that stripped hole for a slightly larger thread and slightly larger set screws. Make sure you have the replacements on hand first! Dont rethread for set screws you can't find. The super small amount of weight difference plus the very small radious involved will make almost NO difference in the "Balance". CAUTION!! Remember the pointed ones must go in first to grab the back side of the bearing race and the "flat" bottomed ones go in on top for "lock screw" purposes. If you reverse that and jam one of those points into the hexhead of the bottom one you will likely have to drill it out. BTDT!! You have now been warned...(:-}>...
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Myron B East Texas Most of of the fleet: Cub Cadets: 2 Orig,70,71,122,123,104,124,126,86,128, 109,800,1200,1250,1450,1650,IH 682,782D,IH 982. Cadets: 76,SO76,80,81,IH 182. RER: 60,75. Elec 95. Trailers: #2, #3, #4, 1200-A,1200-B,1200-C, 2000. IH 1210 P/U, an IH Scout II and an IH Scout 800 to tow 'em with. |
#32
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Thanks. It's installed and running fine. Rethreaded one 1/4x20, had to helicoil the other. Helicoil insert wasn't long enough to put second set screw in. I actually plan on a muffler replacement & will replace the PTO pulley this winter. I'll probably resurface the shaft & replace the bearing again & that time. Right now I had to get it operational.
I must say that the clutch rebuild is manageable & no one should be afraid of rebuilding. The bearing and the anti-rattle springs were the largest challenge. If everything else had worked the rest would have been relatively painless. Thanks for your tips on your experience with WD.
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1970 127 |
#33
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Librati... IH put the second (Lock) set screws in because a single one will vibrate out...That's why I recommended taping and threading for a slightly larger set of set screws!! You need TWO in each hole!! So if the Helicoil only allows the one set screw..you have set yoursef up for a bit of a problem when that set screw eventually vibrates out... Think about it...
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Myron B East Texas Most of of the fleet: Cub Cadets: 2 Orig,70,71,122,123,104,124,126,86,128, 109,800,1200,1250,1450,1650,IH 682,782D,IH 982. Cadets: 76,SO76,80,81,IH 182. RER: 60,75. Elec 95. Trailers: #2, #3, #4, 1200-A,1200-B,1200-C, 2000. IH 1210 P/U, an IH Scout II and an IH Scout 800 to tow 'em with. |
#34
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Yeah, I've been thinking abut that as well... The kit came with plenty of Helicoil inserts, it's just breaking off the threading arm when it's half-way inside the hole... that's the challenge... it wasn't a problem on the first one.. but on the second one it's a real issue.. although I took some measurements last night and it appears that the 1/4 - 20 x 1/2 set screw (this is the conical one) has enough protruding above the top of the helicoil that I can simply use a set screw that is the same thread pattern of the helicoil insert and use that for the summer.. The helicoil threading job I did wandered about > 1mm out of dead center so I want to replace the pulley.. so either one will come up on #bay or I'll purchase one from a sponsor by the winter and do another rebuild... or I'll strike it rich and buy a parts tractor.. I know where 3 are... but.. just cant fork over the dough..
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1970 127 |
#35
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I'm looking for just the triangular plate that's in the PTO on a Cadet 126. Anyone know where I can get one? The rest of the unit looks good but that part is broken. Thanks!
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#36
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Welcome to OCC! Glad to have you! Our sponsors at the top of each page should have what you need. You can also place a wanted ad in the Wanted Items section of the site.
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Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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