582 Vanguard repower

[Sam Mac]

Thinking a little more about this I see no reason that you couldn't use your existing driver and just get the flange that Lew mentioned in post #13 and bolt it up like you had it in post #12. If you go that way all you'll need is a custom drive shaft and the sleeve. Use the existing adapter and the 2000 coupler to mount the flange with the bushing in it. Good thing about the ball bushing is that it will allow a small degree of misalignment. Notice I said small degree of misalignment

[Hack.45]

I like your thought. It cuts down the expense and custom applications. Do you think a flange will be difficult to find? If I could buy a standard drive plate for less than $30 shipped, would it be just as practical to go with the new drive plate? Just curious which is the most practical route.

[Sam Mac]

703-1492 ! Flange Assy, Drive Shaft $22.37 + shipping.

I like using your existing driver if the clutch will be close to the air inlet for the blower because it's dished so it wont restrict air flow to the engine cooling. I'll PM you on where I found that part price.

[Hack.45]

Good points. I like this setup, and the price is great too. Thanks!

[Hack.45]

Hey guys, sorry for going MIA on this project. I suffered an injury to my right hand in May, which required surgery, and then physical therapy. I'm on the mend though, and have recently put more work into the 582. I made a new drive shaft with an extra 2.250" of length, bought a flange plate with pilot bearing, and had a 2.125" spacer machined to connect the clutch spring to the pressure plate. I attached a quick picture of the assembly.

My current issue is identifying the correct mounting height of the engine. I initially measured the height from the floor, to the center of the crank shaft, on the original engine and then repeated this process on the Vanguard. I got approximately 1.250" difference and had 4 round stock spacers cut at this length. Now that the drive-shaft is installed, I've realized that the spacers are too short. I'm just wondering if anyone has advice for calculating the proper engine height?

[Berwil]

Are u you using the original engine plate? Did you add in the height of the original engine spacers, #5+6? Not sure why two different height spacers, unless the oil pan is angled it would tilt the motor.

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Bill

[Shrewcub]

Sorry to hear about the injury. I would start by shimming with washers to get close. Measure the additional height and make new spacers. The work so far looks great!

When I have done repower planning, I have always measured from the mount plate to crankshaft. Hindsight is 20/20, right?

Edit: I didn't see Bills reply, I didn't know it originally had different sizes front to back. Good question on the mount plate, Bill.

[Hack.45]

Hey guys, thanks for the input The scary thing is that when I removed the original engine, no spacers were under it. My stepdad removed, and reinstalled, the engine prior to me regaining ownership, so I'm wondering if he failed to put the spacers back. This also explains why my new engine has a forward cant. I'm using a piece of key stock to gauge the gap between my drive plate and clutch disk. I assume that when the key stock fits the same top, bottom, left, right I have the engine positioned correctly. No matter how many fender washers I've shimmed with, I can't get the same gap top/bottom.

[johns cubs]

Has any body tried to repower a 104 with vanguard oposing twin? I have 3, ranging from 17-19.5. Just curiouse. My k301 is starting to smoke, only when its under a decent load when pushing or pulling.

[Hack.45]

So I took a look at the original engine this evening. It looks like spacers are cast on to the block.