582 Vanguard repower
 

Hi Guys,

I've been following this board for a while, and researching my topics before posting new questions so as to not be redundant. But, I need some input. I'm currently repowering a International Harvester built 582 with a late model Briggs Vanguard 18 HP engine. The tractor will be used for lawn care and gardening, so I want to keep the PTO in its original location. The engine fits in with plenty of clearance, but sits too far forward, and too low. The height problem seems straight forward - engine spacers. But I'm getting hung up on the drive shaft issue.

My original engine has an aluminum fan wheel, which also is the clutch drive plate mount, and pilot bearing for the front of the drive shaft. My first question is, should I keep this fan for air movement? I'm thinking that the fan is there because of the diameter of the clutch assembly restricts air flow. Am I okay deleting it? Or should I keep it?

My second question is regarding the drive shaft length. I emailed Jeff in PA, who has been a great help with problem solving. He recommends making a lengthened drive shaft, but I'm wondering how that will work out in relation to the throw-out bearing assembly?

I attached pictures. The first picture is the flywheel assembly on the original opposed twin Briggs engine. The second picture is the fan and clutch drive plate. The last picture is the back of the Vanguard engine, with the original drive shaft hub.

Thanks for your help and input! It's very appreciated.

This is doable but it will be challenging. It will definitely require a custom adapter between the engine and the clutch. I agree that the PTO needs to be your starting point and then work to the rear from that point. What I would do is to locate the engine for the proper PTO location, then I would get the angle and alignment for the drive shaft worked out you need a straight line from the input to the trans all the way through the engine. Think one solid shaft connected to the trans ending at the PTO. Once you have that worked out then you can get the measurements to make the spacer that will bolt to the engine and the 3 pin driver for the clutch. If memory serves the B&S had an odd ball 3 pin driver so since you are going through the trouble if it was me I'd try to design the adapter to accept something that fits a Kohler. Try to keep the one off stuff to a minimum. Hope you have a good machine shop because you will need it. Hope this makes sense.

Hi Sam,

I appreciate your input. The clutch drive plate does mount to the vanguard hub, without a problem. I blocked up the engine, and attached the drive plate, and took this photo. The PTO is lined up, and the consequential gap is approximately 2" between the clutch and drive plate.

You have the 3 pin driver bolted to the 2000 or 3000 series drive shaft adapter, that has to go. You are going to need to remove it and calculate the length between the face of the 3 pin driver and the cranks adapter.

I've been giving this one a little more thought. You will need to replace your existing 3 pin driver because the one you have does not have the pilot bushing as part of the driver, you will need one like what IH cub cadet parts sells. You can click on his link at the top of the page. Once you get that, slide it in place on the clutch then measure the space between the back of the driver and the engine adapter. Then it's a simple job to make a spacer that will hold the driver and bolt to the engine adapter. Here is a pic of the driver from Marks web site. I don't have a pic of the other side but I'm sure someone here does.

Thanks Sam! That adapter helps to simplify the process.

I sent Yosemite Sam AKA Mark a PM asking him to post a pic of the back side of the 3 pin driver yesterday, guess he is to busy to help. :bigthink:

Just sent him a second PM.

Hi guys, the other night my computer did one of those things where it shuts itself off and "upgrades" or "updates" or some damn thing and now I can't get it to do anything... I just spent 2 & 1/2 hours loading a picture in a different thread.

In this thread, no pictures are coming up, I have however read most of the text, hopefully soon I will have undone whatever this thing has done to itself and be able to respond to the situation within this thread hopefully with a bit of productive input.

For what it's worth, the three pin drivers that I make are a direct replacement for the factory NF/WF drivers NOT the QL ones.

Secondly the hub areas are exactly the same on the back side as the factory ones, however I can possibly modify one to meet the needs of this application.

The third thing and possibly most important, I do not have one of these on the shelf and with my current work-load I'm not sure when I can get one turned out, I should say two because someone else is in line in front of you. I will however do my best.

Can someone catch me up?

Is the 3rd picture in post #1 the adapter that Sam is saying that needs to go?

I see the fan in pic #1 of post #1 is where the pilot bushing mounts.

The part that appears to be attached to the 3 pin driver in the second picture in the first post, is that the same fan from the first picture just from a different angle?

Hi Sam,

You're right on. The third picture in post #1 is the 2000 and 3000 series drive adapter. The other pictures were the factory drive setup that consisted of an aluminum fan, which had a pilot bearing, and bolted to a concave 3 pin driver. The pictures show the fan on the original engine, and then removed from the engine and attached to the clutch assembly.