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#21
07-05-2010, 10:44 PM
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I've got about 3-4 of the old-style aluminum fuel pumps. Hopefully one of them will work. I've been thinking about that, just haven't gotten to it yet...gotta get the motor mounted first.
Actually, it'd be nice to be able to steer it without having to kick one of the front tires, first.... 
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#22
07-05-2010, 10:49 PM
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Yeah, I have a few of the ones that have the primer lever kicking around somewhere. I used one of the newer style ones from a M12 on my K301. I know that the plunger configuration differs on some of them, and it wont ride on the cam properly?? I wonder how an electric pump would work for this application?
Jeff (teet)
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CCC 1211 71 127  102 122 1962 Original
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#23
07-05-2010, 10:53 PM
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I'm going to put the pump on before I put the oil pan back on so I can make sure it interfaces right with the cam. If one doesn't, I'll buy a new one. $30 isn't too bad.
An electric pump would work, but it's hard to find ones with low enough pressure, and they can be expensive. I'd prefer a mechanical pump since it's not taking any juice from the battery when I'm trying to start this thing in the dead of winter.
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#24
07-06-2010, 09:45 AM
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 Nice job Matt! I like your choice in tractor for this project. Can't wait to read more on your project. Looks great.
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#25
07-08-2010, 09:56 PM
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Got a little more done on the 682 loader today. A friend of my dad's welded up the muffler box and oil pan, and I re-machined the pads on the bottom of the pan. It didn't warp much, but I wound up having to lap the gasket surface on my sheet of glass and sandpaper since we had to drill all the way through those two mounting holes, build up material, drill/tap through from the back, and then weld plugs into the holes on the gasket side.
I also moved the hydraulic lines further forward on the front crossbrace to get more room so I can hopefully slide the loader back another inch. I'm also using a spare frame and junk aluminum rear to make it easier to build the subframe. My steering column parts are in, so tomorrow I'll get those, get some steel to brace the engine mount rails, and get more steel for the subframe.
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#28
07-09-2010, 09:24 PM
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I got a bit more done on the 682 today. I found a better source for some of the metal I need for the loader subframe, but I can't pick it up until Monday. I did get my steering column back together. Here's all the shiny new parts and the cleaned old parts:
The surface of the pivot bolt was very rough for some reason, so I polished it with emery paper, and then wiped it down with mineral spirits. Actually, I cleaned all of the parts I was re-using with mineral spirits to remove anything that may have gotten into the while they were sitting around the past week. I was rather surprised how poorly the new $25 follower stud matched the profile of the worm: Last year I ordered new bearing races for the steering box for the 100 I was going through, and the races were square and didn't fit right. Someone else here ran into this recently, too. I have since learned that using the really cheap ($10) IH-71930-C91 kit with two bearings, retainers, and races fits properly in the steering box, unlike the separate races I tried to get last year. Just thought I'd pass that along...if you're rebuilding a steering box, that's the thing you need, and it doesn't show up in the parts lookup diagram. I got the box completely assembled, complete with Nice 605V thrust bearing and nylock nut. I then installed it into the tractor, replaced the tie rod ends on the drag link with Heim joints, and put the steering wheel on temporarily (with anti-seize so I don't have to go through the same shenanigans to remove it again if I need to) and...wow! Steers like new! I can't wait to drive it. I put hose clamps around the top and bottom of the box to hopefully strengthen it and avoid splitting it in half along the mold line.
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#29
07-09-2010, 09:25 PM
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After fixing our hydraulic press yesterday, I came up with this fixture to bend 1/4" thick steel flat stock to make various things.
It works great...the bends are cleaner and more accurate than they would have been if I had heated the piece with a torch and bent it. I used it to bend brackets that will attach the subframe to the axle housing. They didn't come out so great though; the axle tubes taper, and the bend radius isn't tight enough to avoid loading the tube at the corner of the hex, so I'm going to cut this in half at the middle bend, readjust the two halves so it fits the taper of the axle tube, spreading the load out, and then weld them back together.
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#30
07-09-2010, 09:38 PM
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MATT.
Question on the steering rebuild. I see these rebuild kits on epay. http://cgi.ebay.com/IH-Cub-Cadet-Gar...item19bd9e2361 http://cgi.ebay.com/IH-Cub-Cadet-Gar...item19bd9ccfeb http://cgi.ebay.com/Cub-Cadet-Garden...item19bd6e0afe Are these OK, or can I get the parts myself cheaper, or is there a better option. Thanks JOE
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Sold everything but one. 1211-snow pusher, cab ,54 inch plow, loaded tires (all 4) Gilson wheel weights, X-trac fronts- soon to have power steering and dual hydraulics
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