682 and Kwik-Way loader project
 

Here's the 682 I've been working on. I sold the 124 out from under my loader, so it's become time to put something else together for it. I've finally collected the right stuff to go through with this: An IH-built 682 (Oct. '79) and an engine smaller than the KT-17 that was in it. I wanted a K301AQS but wound up with a K321AQS instead. Oh well... The engine came from a 1250 and the iso-mounts were shot, so the pan has some wear, but I think it's usable if there's no cracks. I think every gasket and seal on that engine leaked, so I spent awhile yesterday degreasing the engine.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...7&d=1278204803

I've got a gasket set for it, and I'll be removing the balance gears (by disassembling the engine, if necessary) if I find any when I drop the pan to replace the leaky gasket. I'll also toss in a new set of points and condenser and new spark plug (and I might spring for a Pointsaver if I have any $$$ left over after I put this thing together). It also needs a head gasket, so perhaps I'll do a how-to for that while I'm at it.

Here's the tractor:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...8&d=1278204810

That KT-17 must have been throwing oil for quite awhile...everything in the engine compartment was greasy. This tractor is in pretty good shape overall though; the rag joints are in great shape, and the rear coupler is still tight on the input shaft. I took the bearings out of the front wheels and found them to be in great shape, so I packed them with grease and reinstalled them. I also tightened the slop in the front axle by tightening the nut on the pivot bolt about half a turn, and greased the front spindles. I wanted to take the steering column out to go through the box, but I haven't been able to remove the steering wheel yet. So I spent most of the day cleaning the greasy mess off of the parts I removed.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...9&d=1278204816

The garage is very red at the moment...

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...0&d=1278204821

Thanks for the pics, Matt! Can't wait to see the finished product. :beerchug:

Looking great so far Matt!

Your 682 engine swap is looking very familiar :biggrin2.gif:

Jeff (teet)

Hey Jeff, does the starter wire reach, or do I need to add a longer one?

The wire harness needs to be re-routed to the rt side of the tractor near the steering column(I zip tie it to the column to clear the drive shaft). The starter wire was probably 6" too short, so yes you will need to add some length to it for it to reach. Also the headlight wires are now moved to the right side which need lengthening as well. Surprisingly the pto wire fit fine, as well as the regulator wiring. I tried umpteen ways to make some slack in the harness to get it closer to the rt side of the tractor.

Keep us updated on your progress,

Jeff (teet)

Finally got the steering wheel off. Had to make a puller out of a chunk of hardwood to use with a harmonic balancer puller. I wish I would have done that first. It came off very easily with this. The PO painted the end of the steering shaft red, for reasons I'll never understand, and then put the steering wheel on. That kept my penetrant from getting in there.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...2&d=1278263360

I'm no longer an advocate of the 'hammer, bolt, and nut' method for removing the steering wheel, as my attempt with it destroyed the lower bearing race.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...3&d=1278263368

The lower bearing race is on the left, upper on the right. The upper bearing race is in perfect condition. The galling from the my first steering wheel removal attempt is quite visible on the lower race. If I had just made the puller in the first place, I could have gotten away with new bearings and a cam follower...but now I need a bearing race, too.:bash2:

The damage to the bearing was caused by water, lack of grease, and age. If it was done by hammering the damaged areas would have been chipped and shiny, with some broken bearings.

Nope...box was full of grease, no water or evidence of water ever being there. The races are galled from the bearing balls being pounded into them. The balls even fit perfectly into the marks. I have taken apart several boxes with water damage in the past...this is not the same.

If that damaged was caused by a few hammer blows the bearing would never have lasted 30+ years. Bearings are made from hard metal and when hit they ether chip or break. The pits in the bearing is from the hard surface chipping off from years and years of use. The indentions in the bearing is from the steering wheel being used mostly in the same position for years, probably in the straight forward position.

Amigatec-

It was more than a 'few' hammer blows...this is the most stubborn steering wheel I've had in quite awhile. If the indentations are from the steering wheel being in the same position, the top bearing race should have looked the same, as there was preload on the assembly. The top race looks new other than a shiny surface where the bearing balls ride. The bottom race has radial and circumferential cracks visible on the backside...that's not normal wear and tear.

I had the column out of my 782D recently...one light tap of the hammer was all it took to get the steering wheel off of that one. The parts in that column were in comparable condition to this column, with one difference: BOTH bearing cups were in great shape, like the top one in this 682 column. One ball had a couple specks of chrome missing, so they all got replaced.