Mechanical PTO Rebuild - Page 3

labrati · #21 05-21-2010, 11:51 AM

What about using a bearing/gear puller or tie-rod puller to get the bearing off of there?

labrati · #22 05-22-2010, 03:29 PM

well, I ended up having to use a bearing puller to remove the bearing.... to get the puller in there the entire front had to come off, mule drive, sub-frame... ahhh good times... the shaft where the PTO bearing was has a bit of a bugger in it.. sort of a secondary grove (not the woodruff grove)... at any rate.. I'm leaving it off until I get the new bearing installed...

Rhoderman · #23 05-22-2010, 07:50 PM

Looks very familiar. Here's from when I was pulling the pulley/basket assembly off. Boy, what a pain!

Spray some PBlaster on the areas you can see. Maybe one day when you decide to pull your pulley off, you'll appreciate what you did.

Have fun!

labrati · #24 05-23-2010, 09:59 AM

Yeah... I'd figure using a harmonic balancer puller would work.. but frankly.. I just need to get back to mowing... so the s/g pulley will have to wait...

labrati · #25 05-24-2010, 09:44 PM

Picked up a bearing at NAPA today.. just got it on.. holy moly.. does that thing really need a locking collar? Took half an hour with a rubber mallet and a block of wood to get it flush!

labrati · #26 05-24-2010, 10:02 PM

I've had the PTO pulley with one set screw soaking in PB for about 4 days.. alternating between inside and outside of screw... still can't get screw to budge... so is the torch next? I've never been forced to loosen anything with a torch.. so procedure would be appreciated... all I have is a hand-held propane big-box store deal.. just the cannister type..

Also, I've got one of the holes for the set screw that is completely buggered.. stripped totally out... what would the thought be on coating the inside with JB weld and perhaps threading that? I guess I could thread for a larger set screw.. but then to balance wouldn't I need to have the same size set screws in each hole?

Matt G. · #27 05-24-2010, 10:48 PM

You might be able to helicoil that. Don't bother with JBcan'tWeld, it isn't going to help you at all.

You would really need to heat the casting around the stuck screw until it glows, but you will not be able to do that without a more serious torch.

With that bearing, I take it you didn't clean the crankshaft and put some anti-seize compound on it...the bearing should slide on easily by hand. Now you're going to have a hard time getting it off again should you need to.

labrati · #28 05-25-2010, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

You might be able to helicoil that. Don't bother with JBcan'tWeld, it isn't going to help you at all.

You would really need to heat the casting around the stuck screw until it glows, but you will not be able to do that without a more serious torch.

With that bearing, I take it you didn't clean the crankshaft and put some anti-seize compound on it...the bearing should slide on easily by hand. Now you're going to have a hard time getting it off again should you need to.

I did clean the shaft. When it wouldn't go easy the first time I even got after it with an SOS pad. It was shiny. I ended up lubing with WD-40. There is no way any anti-sieze was going anyplace but the woodruff channel. The other bearing required a puller even after the collar was off.

I'll check out helicoil. Thanks.

labrati · #29 05-26-2010, 12:52 PM

Finally have "most" of the parts... I had to drill out one of the conical set screws last night.. just refused to budge... but I think I left enough to tap that to fit a normal size set screw.. now of course, I'm down a set screw.. actually don't have the second set of screws for each either..

So tonight I'll be tapping one hole, passing the tap through the only good hole and hopefully finding a helicoil at the local parts place.. although I note a lot of the helicoils have a little end piece that goes over one end.. I would think this might interfere with the point on the conical set screw..

Removed the PTO rod wear button and had fun getting the new one in there.. tight fit!

Hopefully by Thursday or Friday I can have the PTO rebuilt and mow the jungle..

The pressure disk kit did come with the anti-rattle springs and the guide tool.. oddly enough in a sealed bag the guide tool looks like it's been in the bottom of someones tackle box...

dswanson · #30 05-29-2010, 07:00 PM

I found this thread by accident and I just picket up a 107 with a 12hp engine. Everything ran, the mower mowed etc. later the same day I got it I began hearing a clanking sound towards the front of the engine. It sounded like a loose pulley.
The next day I went to start it like the day before but it just cranked. It sounded weird and wouldn't start. Then I stood off to the side and turned the ignition. I watched the starter generator turn the belt but then I noticed the basket pulley turning, but the engine wasn't! No wonder it was so quiet!
I stopped what I was doing, got on my knees and turned the basket pulley by hand... it turns out that the pulley is actually broken all the way around about an 1/8" away from the shaft, so the pulley is just spinning freely over it's broken keyed hole.
Now I have the PTO off and I'm at the bearing. The bearing isn't even flush with the end of the shaft. I loosened the set screw and tapped the collar clockwise a little.
My wife has my puller in her car so I can't do anything until she gets back. But tomorrow I'm going to pull the bearing, lift off the pulley and have to deal with a metal ring that was the pulley stuck to the shaft.
I just soaked it in PB and will deal with it tomorrow. Since I'm not saving any pulley I imagine I can do almost anything including hacksaw to get off the remnants of what 's left. Damn other peoples hamfisted repairs! (I did get it cheap so I guess I get what I paid for. But when it ran it sounded good, forward and reverse and the deck was smooth.).
Anybody seen that before?