1862 Let it die or rebuild

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by FrankF3

I had an old-timer tell me he had a trick to clean the aluminum off of the crank journals. He would go to the hardware store for some muratic acid that is used for masonry jobs. Dip the crank journal in it and let the aluminum dissolve. A slight polishing was usually the only thing that was needed to clean up the journal afterwards

Yeah, you can do that. But if the rod seized, then there's an issue. I've built a lot of engines, never seen a crank journal that had galded aluminum on it that didn't need ground. No reason to remove the aluminum if it's going to a regrinder. The crank grinder will take it right off.

[ccpullin]

Originally Posted by FrankF3

I had an old-timer tell me he had a trick to clean the aluminum off of the crank journals. He would go to the hardware store for some muratic acid that is used for masonry jobs. Dip the crank journal in it and let the aluminum dissolve. A slight polishing was usually the only thing that was needed to clean up the journal afterwards

I have done several twin magnum, series II and V twin commands with success (all pressure fed oil), but seldom got away with it on the singles as typically I think the crank on them were wore before they seized. I found it best to brush the acid on in a WELL VENTED area. I tried submerging one once and it ate in to the crank. My experience is clean it off with acid and a tooth brush, a quick polish with the back side of emery cloth and oil, then mic it. If it checks OK (with in .0005 of stock), use it providing it did not get so hot to dis-color the crank. In most cases I think the engine had an oil leak prior, and they ran it out of oil.

[Mike McKown]

Fifty years ago.................................

I had a '56 Bel Air. Had a souped up 265 engine, Corvette solid lifter camshaft, 2X4 carburetors and a 4.56 axle.

I am driving down the road toward the house, just taking my time and I hear this really shrill SQREEEEEEEECH! I kicked the clutch in and coasted into the barn.

Pulled the pan. I had spun a rod bearing and locked the engine. So I pulled the rod cap, pried the melted rod bearing off the crank journal with a screwdriver. Dressed the heavy stuff off the crank with an old file. Didn't look too bad so I called my buddy in town and asked him to pick up a .001 O/S rod bearing, a strip of emery cloth and a pan gasket set.

I cleaned the crank with the emery cloth and got it smooth and clamped the rod back on the crank. Put the pan back on. New oil, new filter and fired that bugger up!

I drove it for three months like that, sometimes revving to 7000 rpm in a drag race. After three months, I had saved enough money to buy a new 327 engine. The 265 was wounded when I pulled it out but it was still running okay.

Sometimes you gotta' do what you gotta' do!

[knucklebuster283]

Got to looking at the two halves of the block last night and found silicone in the oil passage just under the rear of the cam. So lack of oil to the crank bearing and the one rod caused the problem with the rod seizing. There is some discoloring of the crank for that rod.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by knucklebuster283

There is some discoloring of the crank for that rod.

Grind it.

Have you priced parts yet? Your not going to like it...... if you can find them. Pats small engines is your best bet. But, while your there, you really should check out the price of a new Command. Pretty reasonable.

I did some quick pricing...... Your looking at around $900 + in parts and machine work. And that price is including some guesses on NLA parts, machine work, and also the fact that OS pistons don't seem to be readily available for the M18. I bet you have well over $1K in it before your done, if you do it right.

[FrankF3]

Jonathan, you're proably right on the parts, however with so many M18s out there, you'd think the parts would be more readily available for it. What about Sten's? Do they have a selection of parts for the M18?

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by FrankF3

Jonathan, you're proably right on the parts, however with so many M18s out there, you'd think the parts would be more readily available for it. What about Sten's? Do they have a selection of parts for the M18?

Nope. No one does.

The KT, Mag, and CH's are very similar, but parts availabilty is scarce for the KT and Mags. They really weren't designed to be rebuildable. You can tell that by the split crankcase, and the brass bearing insert for the crankshaft mains. I have several laying here, and I'm having a hard time trying to decide what to do with them. For my own use, they are worth rebuilding, but I'm willing to live with the consequence of a failure. If one did fail, it would be the first motor I ever built that did. But to rebuild them for resale....... you can buy a new Command for what that costs.

So, to the OP..... here's the question. Are you willing to bet $1K on your ability to rebuild an engine? ........... Something to think about.

[knucklebuster283]

That figures, I just passed on a 1811 for $400. But for that kind of $ for $1500 there is GT 1554 I think in Nashville. Have been looking for a 2185 as Sam has suggested and convert to the CH18. But have only seen one for sale. And that was too high priced to bee a donor. So no to doing anything with the mag. It's been rebuilt at least once. Not sure what I'll do with it now. It's been suggested I should pull the Vanguard out of the 1641 and repower the 1862 with it, but have beeen told the 16 horse would not handle the 54 " deck.

[knucklebuster283]

Just thinking outside the box, if I got a vertical shaft m18, would the internals work in a horizontal. I really don't see why they wouldn't. ???

[kostendorf]

A engine is designed to oil the internal parts the way its supposed to sit. If you turn it on its side it will not oil the parts and leak everywhere.