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  #11  
Old 03-29-2020, 11:39 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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On second look at the picture, it appears someone has already "fixed" it at some point.
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  #12  
Old 03-29-2020, 10:29 PM
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IHCubCadet147 IHCubCadet147 is offline
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On second look at the picture, it appears someone has already "fixed" it at some point.
I was thinking the same thing, the welds don’t look factory. Both sides are like that.
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub
38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart
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  #13  
Old 03-31-2020, 08:57 PM
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IHCubCadet147 IHCubCadet147 is offline
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I glued it tonight. I’ll take the clamps off and paint it tomorrow.
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub
38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart
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  #14  
Old 04-01-2020, 07:51 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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I hope it works out for you but I have my doubts.
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  #15  
Old 04-01-2020, 08:49 AM
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cooperino cooperino is offline
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Seems like a decent repair. Not sure of longevity of it.
I was under the assumption that you wanted a repair that could be done avoiding paint work. After this repair, you said your going to paint it. My question is, if you planned on painting anyway, why not just use a welding method to permanently repair? Someone mentioned thicker gauge steel. Paired with that and welding it in then painting i think would have been a truly permanent solution.

Your time, money, tractor of course. Just curious.
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  #16  
Old 04-01-2020, 09:17 AM
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IHCubCadet147 IHCubCadet147 is offline
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I hope it works out for you but I have my doubts.
We’ll see. The glue I used is pretty good, it’s meant for holding body panels on cars.
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Seems like a decent repair. Not sure of longevity of it.
I was under the assumption that you wanted a repair that could be done avoiding paint work. After this repair, you said your going to paint it. My question is, if you planned on painting anyway, why not just use a welding method to permanently repair? Someone mentioned thicker gauge steel. Paired with that and welding it in then painting i think would have been a truly permanent solution.

Your time, money, tractor of course. Just curious.
I am just going to touch up that spot on the inside. I didn’t want to paint the outside of the hood.
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub
38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart
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  #17  
Old 04-01-2020, 09:19 AM
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cubs-n-bxrs cubs-n-bxrs is offline
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I wouldn't give a glue job a prayers chance. I don't think the glue will hold up to the vibration the hood is exposed to. Spot welding or tack welding is the only real fix.
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  #18  
Old 04-01-2020, 09:28 AM
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I wouldn't give a glue job a prayers chance. I don't think the glue will hold up to the vibration the hood is exposed to. Spot welding or tack welding is the only real fix.
Go visit a body shop, you'll be in for a surprise.
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  #19  
Old 04-01-2020, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by IHCubCadet147 View Post
We’ll see. The glue I used is pretty good, it’s meant for holding body panels on cars.

I am just going to touch up that spot on the inside. I didn’t want to paint the outside of the hood.
Ah... understood
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  #20  
Old 04-01-2020, 11:21 AM
guido guido is offline
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Looks good.

I have used Pliobond in the past with some success on other projects. Not sure it would hold up to the Kohler shake though. My "olde dad" told me they used it when patching the fuselage on their B-17's.
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