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IHCubCadet147 03-28-2020 10:32 AM

How would you fix this?
 
1 Attachment(s)
The hood brace on my 125 broke. I know the right way to fix it would be to weld it, but I don’t want to burn the paint off the outside of the hood. Any other ideas what I can do? I thought about an epoxy like JB Weld, but I don’t think it would hold up too long.

cooperino 03-28-2020 01:10 PM

I own a spot welder. Some of the better rental places will rent them. If you can rent one it would leave the smallest amount of damage.

finsruskw 03-28-2020 02:30 PM

Make a new one from a thicker gage mat'l
I have done it on several Cubs
Use a spot weld cutter to remove what's left of the old one from the inside.

darkminion_17 03-28-2020 06:28 PM

Flex seal the sucker on, yeeeeee haaaaaa.

CADplans 03-28-2020 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHCubCadet147 (Post 494108)
I thought about an epoxy like JB Weld, but I don’t think it would hold up too long.

The JB Weld fix will work,, ya just gotta do it right,,

Bend a piece of thick siding or other sheetmetal to an "L" shape,, some piece of metal close to the thickness of the hood.
If you can not find that, a thin piece of angle steel, with legs that are at least one inch can be substituted.

you must have at least 4 square inches of area that will contact EACH part.

Bend it until you have a good fit,, apply the JB Weld to the at least 8 square inches of contact area.

I would apply it to all 4 surfaces, prior to assembly, to insure no spot remains "dry"

After curing, that lap joint fix will be easily as strong as the previous tack welds.

Large lap joints do very well at resisting vibration,,

I have fixed many things that normally are considered "weld only" using the large surface area trick.

IHCubCadet147 03-28-2020 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooperino (Post 494118)
I own a spot welder. Some of the better rental places will rent them. If you can rent one it would leave the smallest amount of damage.

We have one, but that would be the last resort.
Quote:

Originally Posted by CADplans (Post 494143)
The JB Weld fix will work,, ya just gotta do it right,,

Bend a piece of thick siding or other sheetmetal to an "L" shape,, some piece of metal close to the thickness of the hood.
If you can not find that, a thin piece of angle steel, with legs that are at least one inch can be substituted.

you must have at least 4 square inches of area that will contact EACH part.

Bend it until you have a good fit,, apply the JB Weld to the at least 8 square inches of contact area.

I would apply it to all 4 surfaces, prior to assembly, to insure no spot remains "dry"

After curing, that lap joint fix will be easily as strong as the previous tack welds.

Large lap joints do very well at resisting vibration,,

I have fixed many things that normally are considered "weld only" using the large surface area trick.

Great idea, I’m going to try it.

Riley Henderson 03-28-2020 08:49 PM

Keep us informed what works I have a 122 with the same problem curious to see the results:bigthink:
Best of luck on the repair.

IHCubCadet147 03-28-2020 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Riley Henderson (Post 494155)
Keep us informed what works I have a 122 with the same problem curious to see the results:bigthink:
Best of luck on the repair.

Will do. :beerchug:

jbrewer 03-29-2020 09:12 AM

I think that piece has completely fallen off my 122. :-)

john hall 03-29-2020 09:38 AM

Its missing on my Dad's 100. Been thinking about bending a new one and epoxying it in place. We had to run some cosmetic grooves in some large stainless sheet metal strips at work. These were glued/epoxied in place in the entry of a hospital, some were even overhead. There are some rather high tech "glues" on the market these days. Maybe somewhere like McMaster carries such.


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