Question regarding brakes on a car - troubleshooting

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by Shrewcub

Best way to test the hose is replacement. They aren't that much. You can try this too.

Remove the wheel apply the brake, release, then open the bleeder. If fluid squirts out under pressure, the hose is acting like a check valve.

X2

[john hall]

voting for the hose as well. I worked with a guy 25 years ago that drove an old Subaru. He was replacing brakes every 2 months, at least. Finally someone told him it was the brake hoses--problem solved. My guess is they are pretty cheap and if yours have some age on them, well lets just say it ain't no fun when one blows.

[Sam Mac]

Any news on this?

[cubs-n-bxrs]

I gonna put my money on a caliper hanging up and a close second will be brake hose.

[Alvy]

Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs

I gonna put my money on a caliper hanging up and a close second will be brake hose.

He replaced the caliper and the new one is hanging up. Almost has to be the collapsed internally hose.

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Any news on this?

Whoops, didn't see there was a second page to this or much interest! I have a new brake hose waiting for me to pick it up at Napa after work tonite. So I'll throw that on this evening and see if that helps. I'm really crossing my fingers as after a caliper and hose replacement, remaining options aren't very cheap. Thanks again for the advice guys!

[DieselDoctor]

Many times the brake hose has a steel mounting bracket crimped around the hose on some models, especially Ford Ranger pick-ups. I have seen rust cause the steel bracket to swell and crush the hose preventing flow as discussed. Other than the rusty mounting bracket, the hose often looks fine.

[green 4 acres]

I would suggest you need to bleed it more if a bubble of air is in the cool side that would do it , does the r side drag maybe the first question .

you can cut the power to the ABS if you think it is firing up ( for a test drive )it has happened ,usually you will hear it though it is sometimes tough to get the air out of ABS systems ,

Rotors are in very good condition ? it is a common problem for the pad to corrode the rotor then cause a rough braking . hope it helps

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by green 4 acres

I would suggest you need to bleed it more if a bubble of air is in the cool side that would do it , does the r side drag maybe the first question .

you can cut the power to the ABS if you think it is firing up ( for a test drive )it has happened ,usually you will hear it though it is sometimes tough to get the air out of ABS systems ,

Rotors are in very good condition ? it is a common problem for the pad to corrode the rotor then cause a rough braking . hope it helps

The drivers side is the only brake on the car that is dragging (for now, knock on wood )

To cut the power to the ABS, I'm guessing you mean by just pulling the fuse for that subsystem?

And the rotors were replaced last time I did brake pads (a year ago, year and a half maybe?). They should be in good shape

[jimbob200521]

Originally Posted by DieselDoctor

Many times the brake hose has a steel mounting bracket crimped around the hose on some models, especially Ford Ranger pick-ups. I have seen rust cause the steel bracket to swell and crush the hose preventing flow as discussed. Other than the rusty mounting bracket, the hose often looks fine.

I'm going to check for that, as well. After I started seeing the guys here suggest the brake hose, I did a little more looking into it and found that what you said in regards to the steel mounting bracket causing the issue to be easily confused/misdiagnosed as a collapsed line. Either way, new parts are going on shortly so I'll be able to cross another thing off the list and hopefully be done with this problem!