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#1
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Having a hard time/wanting a second opinion regarding an issue my wife is having with the brakes on her car (2005 Malibu, btw). Long story short, once her car has been driven a bit (i.e. warmed up) the car starts pulling to one side and the drivers side brake gets very very hot. I know this because once driven around for a while stressing the brakes, the passenger side brake rotor reads around 200°F and the driver side reads over 540°F and the passenger side caliper reads 139°F and the driver side is 248°F. So, this tells me the drivers side brake is most likely stuck and not releasing. So, I purchase a new caliper and replace the driver's side caliper. I bleed the brakes and take it for a drive. The problem almost seems worse as when I get home, the drivers side caliper is now smoking it has gotten so hot.
So what could it be from there? The booster is obviously working and I don't believe it to be the master cylinder as that controls front and rear, not each brake independently. So this leave the ABS module...right? Anything I'm missing in this troubleshooting process? Lines are clear, each one I did flowed great when bleeding them. Hoping for some expert opinions knowing the guys here, thanks in advance! ![]()
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-Ryan
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#2
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Did you check the wheel bearings for excess play?
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#3
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I did not but I don't think it would be that. I don't get any wobble any other time than when the brakes have been ridden for a while to heat things up. I'm curious, though, what makes you think it could be that? At this point, I'm willing to check anything!
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-Ryan
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#4
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The rubber hose is collapsed internally (and won't release the pressure you apply with your foot) or the pads are seized in the anchors, although I'd think you would have noticed that if it was the case when you changed the caliper.
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RUN IN THE RED 782 w/50c deck (red); 782 dual stick, 44c deck (y/w); 1050 w/38c deck; 1864 w/54" GT deck; 1872 project Cub Cadet Pro Z 560 L 42" power angle snowblade, #2 tiller, 2-QA42a snowthrowers, 450 thrower, #2 cart; 54" Haban blade; Brinly box blade, 48" dethatcher, moldboard plow; Agri-Fab sweeper 1200, 1863, 1864 parts machines |
#5
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Travis 1993 Cub Cadet 2064 1988 Cub Cadet 2072 1980 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20 1966 IH Cub Cadet 102 w/K301 1961 IH Cub Cadet O 1967 IH Cub Cadet 102 & 122 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() JD 2155 w/ 175 loader |
#6
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I'd bet money on the rubber hose that hooks to the caliper, I've had a few go bad over the years and they either do as you described or the brake on that side stops working which forces the other brake to do all the work. I would replace both, if ones bad the other probably isn't far behind.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#7
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My guess as well. I know nothing about anti lock brakes but I'd think if there was a malfunction, your dash light would pop on.
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#8
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__________________
-Ryan
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#9
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Probably a hose as others have said but loose wheel bearings can allow the wheel to tip and rub against the pads. Also check to see if the brake pedal is returning all the way.
__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#10
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Best way to test the hose is replacement. They aren't that much. You can try this too.
Remove the wheel apply the brake, release, then open the bleeder. If fluid squirts out under pressure, the hose is acting like a check valve.
__________________
Travis 1993 Cub Cadet 2064 1988 Cub Cadet 2072 1980 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20 1966 IH Cub Cadet 102 w/K301 1961 IH Cub Cadet O 1967 IH Cub Cadet 102 & 122 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() JD 2155 w/ 175 loader |
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