New to me 1450 and first post

[Yosemite Sam]

Straightening the frame could work, but I think getting a different one would make your life so much easier if there are any available in your area.

Finding a QL roller would be great and save you a bunch of money too.

That way you can just remove parts from the damaged tractor, clean/repair them and bolt them right onto the new frame. You gotta do what's right for you and your situation though.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[johncub7172]

Sounds good that you found the "leaning" problem! Hopefully, you can straighten out the frame some.

I usually pull the engine, to remove the drive line for service. It's easier in the long run, in my opinion. I already broke one cooling fan already while trying with the engine still in the bay. You'll most likely find that both ends of the drive line are worn.

Hopefully you get that spool valve freed up!

[twoton]

Originally Posted by Tom_c

Can the driveshaft be removed from these without shifting the motor ahead?

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the side panels.

Remove the tunnel cover.

Sand the drive shaft clean in the areas in front of the driveshaft output yoke and the cooling fan. Apply some sort of lubricant such as WD 40 to the driveshaft.

Remove the snap ring in the front recess of the cooling fan and slide it forward on the driveshaft.

While rotating the fan on the driveshaft, move the fan forward about 3 inches.

Put a jack under the rear end and raise the tractor about 3 inches. Put a block between the housing and the jack to distribute the weight.

Install a jack stand between the frame rails and up under the drive shaft, just forward of the driveshaft output yoke, the one that attaches to the rear rag joint.

Rotate the drive shaft so the spirol pin in the transmission input yoke is in the vertical position.

Lower the tractor, using the jack that you have under the rear, until the drive shaft is LIGHTLY! resting on the jack stand. The jack stand MUST be right in front of the driveshaft output yoke. The driveshaft Must be supported well enough that when you drive the spirol pins out you cause no damage to the transmission input bearing.

Now, drive the spirol pin out of the transmission input yoke.

Now drive the spirol pin from the driveshaft output yoke. You may have to raise, rotate, lower to get that pin in an accessible position.

Once both pins are out, raise the tractor with the jack, enough to remove the jack stand.

Rotate the yokes and rag joint assembly about the shaft and move it forward.

Be aware; if you have a single rear rag joint there will be a ball bearing inside the transmission input yoke that aids in driveshaft centering, do not loose this.

Remove the bolts that attach the driveshaft input yoke to the front rag joint.

Remove the driveshaft from the machine.

Inspect and if needed replace the front rag joint, the cooling fan, the rear rag joint(s) and both front and rear ball bushings.

cooling fan part # IH-547749-R1
rag joint part # 722-3000
ball bushing part #941-3004
5/16” x 1 ¼” coiled spring pins. Mcmaster-carr #91598A526


Put it back together. Sorry, no pictures.

Other information you may find useful in servicing your Quietline;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...625#post390625

Have fun!

[johncub7172]

Tom, don't forget, a bad drive line vibration and "play" can also attribute from the aqs engine oil pan, worn iso mounts, worn engine cradle, and perhaps the engine drive hub and bushing.

None of these repairs are difficult, just taking time to do them usually results in a good correction made. Could be that the 1450 was operated quite a lot while being bent, or leaning, causing a drive line aggravation.

[vr4Legacy]

Nice score with the dual hydraulics!

A question to those suggesting a new frame, don't the front hydraulic ports come out of the frame? Not that it would be hard, but I assume he'd have to drill holes for those if he didn't get a frame from another dual hydraulic WF?

[Yosemite Sam]

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

Nice score with the dual hydraulics!

A question to those suggesting a new frame, don't the front hydraulic ports come out of the frame? Not that it would be hard, but I assume he'd have to drill holes for those if he didn't get a frame from another dual hydraulic WF?

Yes he would.

[Tom_c]

Hello again,
Wow, I'm blown away by all the kind and extremely generous posts!
Particularly Twoton, that advice on removing the shaft was so well written it should be in the tech section permanently.
I haven't a lot of spare time right now, but I give it half hour here, hour there. I have managed to free the hydraulic spool.I had to remove the steering wheel and dash to get better access. The pen oil wasn't having a lot of success, so I ended up removing the chain link fasteners from the actuating levers and tapping the valves down, then wiggling them back and forth by clamping onto them with a small vise grip. Ultimately, the most effective was to tap the valve down, wiggle back up, tap down again, wiggle up. This freed things up fairly quickly. I still don't know whether I will try to salvage the tractor as a working unit. It probably would make more sense to keep what I can use and part out the rest. Dunno yet.
Regards, Tom

[Tom_c]

Made some more headway today,
I got to thinking that if a whack on the right side pushed the frame to the left, maybe I could fix it by applying a judicious amount of force to the opposite side. So I took the fenders off and bolted a heavy piece of steel to the fender mounting holes and then pushed on that with my loader forks, voila right back to normal!
Now I am looking at the trunnion, and it does show some wear, should I try to fix this before I put it back together , or is this amount of wear still ok?
Thanks, Tom

[Berwil]

Fix the trunion wear and check the bolts holding the frame to the axle to make sure they are not loose or broke from all the moving arond. Glad you got it straightened out.

Bill

[zippy1]

Originally Posted by Berwil

Fix the trunion wear and check the bolts holding the frame to the axle to make sure they are not loose or broke from all the moving arond. Glad you got it straightened out.

Bill

^^^^ What Bill said.