Broke my 1200

[Bob95065]

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

Yep, broke in the empty hole under the spring.

I'm not sure about the arm, I ordered the whole driveshaft, clutch and all off e-bay because the hanger that was in my 1200 when i bought it was off a narrow frame. But the slot did appear to be too short, I put spacers under the bolts on the mount, to shift it down. I thought it was something with my tractor or the solid mounts I put in. But judging by the black enamel on it, I'd say it's not IH original. I posted a couple pics of it. You can see where the TO bearing was riding on it. Also if you look at the bottom, the spacer was rubbing on it, that's why I put spacers under the bolts on my arm mount.

I have the driveshaft that came out of my tractor originally. I just need to disassemble it and swap the release arms. But now you have me thinking maybe I should find another arm....

Looks like the weather will be nice tomorrow. So I think I'm going to build a jig to disassemble the clutch using TwoTon's tutorial. I have a feeling I'll end up doing it more than once...

I saw Jeff in PA makes shafts. I don't think he needs my old one, he has all the measurements on hand. But I'm hoping to use the one I have.

I've got the fenders off the 149 and am de-gunking it now. I think I've found a pressure line for the hydraulics. By the end of the summer I should have at least one working Cub at a time

At least I got the hay knocked down and the weather has turned. I might end up dragging my Gravely walk-behind out next and see if I can get it going ...

That throw out lever is IH original. My 1000 that I have known since almost new had an identical one in it that was painted black.

I highly recommend Jeff in PA for a driveshaft. I replaced my clutch this spring and he made me a new one. I sent him my original shaft so he should have the dimensions.

I bought all new parts from vendors on this site. I had to replace everything down to the hanger. The clutch is smooth and quiet the way it was new. I hope I get another 39 years out of it.

Bob

[vr4Legacy]

Thanks for the confirmation on the hanger Bob.

A little background, the driveshaft that was in the 1200 when I bought it had the wrong hanger on it. A couple eagle eyed members caught it when I was trying to work out the sloppy pedal. As I was looking for a new/used hanger, i found the whole driveshaft assembly. So I picked it up and swapped it. The clutch on the replacement was pretty worn, so my guess is everything was original too.

I still have the old assembly with the wrong hanger. I'm going to take it apart and put the black hanger on, and reassemble it.

I built a Jig per TwoTon's specs. I'll get a few pics up once I get it all together. I plan on replacing the entire driveline at some point. But for now, I'm ok using the old parts so long as they don't cause any damage. I don't see how they could.

On a side note, I ordered some 1/4" ID fuel line. The line cracked when I was pulling the engine on the 1200, so I took the piece home with me. It looks bigger than the 1/4" I bought. Perhaps it is stretched, but my guess is it's 3/8" hose. Does anyone know the size of the fuel line?

[Bob95065]

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

Thanks for the confirmation on the hanger Bob.

A little background, the driveshaft that was in the 1200 when I bought it had the wrong hanger on it. A couple eagle eyed members caught it when I was trying to work out the sloppy pedal. As I was looking for a new/used hanger, i found the whole driveshaft assembly. So I picked it up and swapped it. The clutch on the replacement was pretty worn, so my guess is everything was original too.

I still have the old assembly with the wrong hanger. I'm going to take it apart and put the black hanger on, and reassemble it.

I built a Jig per TwoTon's specs. I'll get a few pics up once I get it all together. I plan on replacing the entire driveline at some point. But for now, I'm ok using the old parts so long as they don't cause any damage. I don't see how they could.

On a side note, I ordered some 1/4" ID fuel line. The line cracked when I was pulling the engine on the 1200, so I took the piece home with me. It looks bigger than the 1/4" I bought. Perhaps it is stretched, but my guess is it's 3/8" hose. Does anyone know the size of the fuel line?

I bit the bullet and replaced everything in between the engine and transmission on my 1000. You can read more here: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=43135

From the link this is what I bought new:

Driveshaft
T/O Bearing
Hanger bracket
Hanger pin
3/8" sproil pins
1/4" sproil pins
Teaser spring
Teaser spring cup
T/O Bearing
Lubricating bushing
Pair of spherical bushings
Rag joint

I bought a clutch disc when I got the tractor back in 2013.

It was more than I wanted to spend but I know it is right and I won't have to mess with it again for 40 years. By that time it will be one of my boy's problem.

I don't have a spring compressor. What I do it put the driveshaft in the frame with the engine out and connect the rear rag joint. It goes in with the rear spring pin installed. The spring, T/O bearing and lever, pin and bracket go on the shaft. I attach the linkage to the lever and don't thread the nut down. Next, I zip tie the clutch/brake pedal up. I then push the lever back against the spring and have my wife connect the linkage. Then I can run the nut down and put the pedal down. I can then assemble the rest of the clutch. Be sure to suport the driveshaft if you drive the front pin in with a hammer. I use a clamp and socket to press the pin in.

I am not sure what diameter the fuel hose is on a QL. Both of mine are original and doing fine. I can check to see if they are marked tomorrow. if it will help. Let me know

[bocephus1991]

I think that release lever is, like one I bought from cub cadet. It looks awful short. I will measure my original one. If I remember right the new one I had bought was 1 1/2 -1 3/4 shorter than the original. It's strange that your new release lever looks chewed up like my original was before it broke in half. I'll measure my original. I'm still going to do what I stated in my earlier post (shorten the new one I ordered). Oh did your 1200 have two rag joints in the rear? Mine did originally, that how I put it back together. Tried one and had to much movement in the driveshaft.

[vr4Legacy]

Thanks for the tip on assembling the clutch Bob. My tractor is out in the middle of some land I bought a couple months ago. I have the driveshaft here at my home. I'm using a jig from this thread

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...837#post311837

hopefully it works ok. As for the fuel line, if it's easily marked that would help. But I have the original hose, I can take it to a parts store and match it up.

Brian, if you could measure your original arm, that would be great. What do you mean by too short? The hole where the driveshaft goes through, or the overall length to the adjustment hole? I had no trouble adjusting mine, but it appears as though the bearing was rubbing towards the bottom, as though the hole for the driveshaft wasn't low enough. But perhaps the broken driveshaft had something to do with that. Comparing the wide frame arm to the narrow frame that was on the tractor before, it's a little longer.

If you look at the break on the driveshaft, it doesn't appear 100% clean, as though it had been cracked for a short period of time, perhaps causing the driveshaft to be a little bent. I posted a couple pics. It sat for about a week before I removed it, so there is a little rust on the whole joint, but towards the top it's a little rough and appears to have more rust than the rest.

My tractor only has one rag joint. But there isn't much play on the driveshaft. If I remember correctly, they started using 2 joints after a certain s/n.

[Bob95065]

I like that clutch assembly jig. If I had more Cubs I would make one too. If you are working in a field that jig is a necessity. I had the luxury of working in a garage at home.

I have a feeling the blue spring may have contributed to the driveshaft breaking. You found the weak link when the force went up. My clutch was slipping when I rebuilt it. My brother had the tractor and used it with a locked up throwout bearing. It tore up the release arm and put steps in the drivesahft. I replaced the bearing and arm when I got it along with the disc just to get it running. The bearing would hang up on the steps and not allow the clutch to fully engage.

I was tempted to go with a stronger spring but decided not to. I am not pulling anything heavy and remembered that this tractor would spin the wheels before the clutch would slip. I kept the original spring and have had no problems.

I'll take a look to see if the fuel line is marked up and send you the correct spec. IH didn't use anything exotic on these tractors so I suspect it is a common, easy to find hose.

Don't be discouraged by the condition of your 1200. It will cost you some money now but if you fix it right it will serve you for decades to come. My tractor was given to me by friends in the neighborhood I grew up in. I have known it since new in 1977. It has been a reliable machine for almost 40 years and with a little TLC will serve for 40 more.

My youngest brother had my 1000 for 4 years and I was sick when I saw it. He drove it into the ground and wasn't running when I got it back. The clutch was the most expensive repair I had to do to it. I did a band-aid repair initially then fixed it right. My advice is do it right and you won't have to do it again.

I really wish my neighbors bought a 1200 new. They had a 122 as well and the additional 2 HP made a difference. The 1000 reminds me of them every time I get on it and I wouldn't sell it for anything.

[vr4Legacy]

Originally Posted by Bob95065

I like that clutch assembly jig. If I had more Cubs I would make one too. If you are working in a field that jig is a necessity. I had the luxury of working in a garage at home.

I have a feeling the blue spring may have contributed to the driveshaft breaking. You found the weak link when the force went up.

Those pics aren't of my clutch. I copied the jig he made. I'm using the stock spring for now at least.

I'll take a look to see if the fuel line is marked up and send you the correct spec. IH didn't use anything exotic on these tractors so I suspect it is a common, easy to find hose.

Thanks. I'm sure it's a standard size, I just want to make sure i have the right one before I get out in the middle of a field lol

Don't be discouraged by the condition of your 1200. It will cost you some money now but if you fix it right it will serve you for decades to come.

I've been nothing but impressed with my 1200. I've gotten my money's worth out of it already. And honestly, this failure is my own stupid fault. I cut 5 acres of 3+ foot tall grass/weeds with it and it did great. Took 2 passes in 1st to get it knocked down. Then I threw it in 2nd to cut it again and nailed a tree stump. I should have known better and taken the time to mark them all after the first cutting. Bumping a stump in 1st isn't too bad. They are all now a nice shade of fluorescent orange with flags all around em.

Broke a mounting bolt on my muffler and engine. I'm all but sure the hit put the nail in the coffin for the driveshaft, even though I used it for a good hour after.

Once we build, and I finally have a garage, I plan on doing a thorough replacement of all the wear items in the driveline and cleaning it up really nice. No intentions a full resto, I like em rugged

I couldn't believe how well the 12hp knocked down this hayfield. It never bogged down. I can't say as much for larger hp tractors I've used in the past. It's amazing how much torque these single cylinder engines put out. HP and an extra cylinder isn't always better. When you need to do work, torque is king.

I picked up a 149 a few weeks ago, so if 12hp can't get er done, I've got a couple more on the bench

[Bob95065]

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

Those pics aren't of my clutch. I copied the jig he made. I'm using the stock spring for now at least.

Thanks. I'm sure it's a standard size, I just want to make sure i have the right one before I get out in the middle of a field lol



I've been nothing but impressed with my 1200. I've gotten my money's worth out of it already. And honestly, this failure is my own stupid fault. I cut 5 acres of 3+ foot tall grass/weeds with it and it did great. Took 2 passes in 1st to get it knocked down. Then I threw it in 2nd to cut it again and nailed a tree stump. I should have known better and taken the time to mark them all after the first cutting. Bumping a stump in 1st isn't too bad. They are all now a nice shade of fluorescent orange with flags all around em.

Broke a mounting bolt on my muffler and engine. I'm all but sure the hit put the nail in the coffin for the driveshaft, even though I used it for a good hour after.

Once we build, and I finally have a garage, I plan on doing a thorough replacement of all the wear items in the driveline and cleaning it up really nice. No intentions a full resto, I like em rugged

I couldn't believe how well the 12hp knocked down this hayfield. It never bogged down. I can't say as much for larger hp tractors I've used in the past. It's amazing how much torque these single cylinder engines put out. HP and an extra cylinder isn't always better. When you need to do work, torque is king.

I picked up a 149 a few weeks ago, so if 12hp can't get er done, I've got a couple more on the bench

I grew up on a 108 and worked at the neighbor's place. They had a 122 and the 1000 that I now own. I have Hytran in my veins and yellow fever bad. I picked up a basket case 1450 that I fixed up. I use it to till my wife's garden and other yardwork. Cub Cadets are workers that's for sure.

I also have a Lickety Log Spliter that has a 8 HP Kohler engine on it. IMHO there's no engine better than a Kohler K series. I don't think we'll see many of the current production small engines in 40 years.

You made a good choice to get a second CC while you are getting your place ready for building. Once you have a place to work and can get the 1200 restored you won't have any problems. Until then a second tractor is a good idea. The trouble with them is they tend to multiply...

[vr4Legacy]

Originally Posted by Bob95065

You made a good choice to get a second CC while you are getting your place ready for building. Once you have a place to work and can get the 1200 restored you won't have any problems. Until then a second tractor is a good idea. The trouble with them is they tend to multiply...

I was really just looking for a blade and maybe some wheel weights. I paid what I was willing to pay for those, for the whole tractor. Even if it didn't run, it as a no-brainer, given most parts are interchangeable.

Somehow, my wife doesn't see it that way

I just keep reminding her I have less in these 2 tractors than I would in a new one that is 1/10th the quality. I can't imagine what damage I would have done to a new tractor hitting that tree stump. It would have been a lot more expensive than a couple grade 8 bolts and new driveshaft. And hey, I enjoy tinkering with this stuff anyway. I'd rather it be on my terms, but oh well. You roll with the punches.

[vr4Legacy]

Got the clutch apart. I made the wooden jig using TwoTon's specs in his write up. Worked great!

Now to the real question, what order do these parts go back on? The first pic is how they came off, I think the spacer is out of order and the teaser spring should be touching the pressure plate. here is how I think it goes. I've read a few threads and I think this is right. This also matches the service manual.

pressure plate -> teaser spring -> spacer cup-> release arm -> throwout bearing -> spring?

Does the teaser spring go inside the cup? That's also how it appears from the manual.

Another interesting thing I noticed, there isn't a hole under the spring like on the one I broke..