Hydro Pump Questions - Page 2

64fleetside · #11 02-03-2015, 01:58 PM

I scored the spring and cone from a local cub cadet salvage guy I found.

olds45512 · #12 02-03-2015, 02:07 PM

No I did not purchase the 129 new so its possible it was changed out at one point in time.

64fleetside · #13 02-03-2015, 02:39 PM

Mine sure looked like it had been there since '74 but who knows. I've read on the net that it wasn't uncommon to have ported pumps on some non-lift rigs. Prolly whatever they had on hand that day...but it sure made it easier for me to go hydraulic lift.
Even the local cub salvage guy was surprised it had ports already. He's got about 150 or so IH cubs.

Terry C · #14 02-03-2015, 02:58 PM

Too bad there is not some marking or a machining difference to tell a replacement from oe. Not that it matters just curious how many were changed. My engine was replaced I'm guessing cause the throttle linkage is some cheesy bent wire with plastic keepers on the ends not a nice ball link set up

Terry

Mpope03 · #15 02-03-2015, 05:03 PM

You guys are incredible! After reading all the posts, I talked to my FIL about the 1250. He had to take it to IH for service back in the early 80's because it stopped moving forward or reverse - so it is very likely that the ported pump that is on the machine was a new replacment. I would really rather use this unit since it was treated much better than the 1650 I have - very visually evident from dents and scratches. Also, the 1250 has internal brake and the 1650 rear end has external brakes.

Thanks for all your help!
Mike

teejk · #16 06-13-2016, 11:35 AM

Hello to all. I'm finally back to putting my old 1250 back together. The machine is 1975 vintage and to my knowledge the hydro has never been touched. I had some leaking from source unknown. The hydro pump is currently sitting on the bench. The inner gasket has been replaced. Where I am now is deciding whether to change the 4 seals (front, rear and 2 sides) before I start putting everything back together. Or is it best to leave them alone? If the advice is to change the seals, anybody have some tips? Thanks

ol'George · #17 06-13-2016, 01:03 PM

Usually if it ain't broke don't fixit.
You can change the front/rear and trunnion shaft seal while it is installed, but the seal under the control linkage is a disassembly of the hydro unit.
---Not for the faint of heart/inexperienced mechanic.

teejk · #18 06-13-2016, 02:32 PM

Thanks George...like I said I was getting some leaks and have no idea where they were coming from. I was thinking of the 4 "easy" ones on the top. I wouldn't even think about that big one (which I assume means the one that goes into the rear-end that is currently sitting on blocks). Forgetting that one, the other four...merely have to try to (carefully) get them out and (carefully) press in new ones...any tips? Or do you think my leaks might already be taken care of with the new internal gasket on the pump and the new gasket where it will meet the pumpkin? If it isn't a big deal would rather do everything I can before everything goes back tighter (this will be the last time that tractor gets a any type of overhaul). But as long as I have your attention, the drive side of the pump has a few pieces of steel that includes what looks like an automotive valve spring compressed between 2 stop washers. Will look up the part number but I don't think that spring is doing much...the shoulders on the retaining plate seem to have been worn to a rounded state. Normal?

teejk · #19 06-22-2016, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol'George

Usually if it ain't broke don't fixit.
You can change the front/rear and trunnion shaft seal while it is installed, but the seal under the control linkage is a disassembly of the hydro unit.
---Not for the faint of heart/inexperienced mechanic.

All cleaned up now (not a pretty job but I guess 40 years untouched with a non-functional cooling fan will do that...was that way when I bought it in 1984 and should have fixed it when I put in the new K341 a few years later). Heaviest build-up of junk is around the front coupling. So simple question...if it was you, would you change the front seal now before you put it back together? I know enough about pumps to know "path of least resistance" and fixing a weak spot will probably show a problem elsewhere.

J-Mech · #20 06-22-2016, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by teejk

I know enough about pumps to know "path of least resistance" and fixing a weak spot will probably show a problem elsewhere.

Apparently not this kind of pump.

Fix the seal. It will take all of 10 min once the driveshaft is out. Replace the fan too if it's broke.

As far as your questions about the springs, read this:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4635

Then search "trunion repair" on this site. Must be at least 500 threads on the topic.